Glass bed for Creator Dual extruder

[darthvaper]

hello just picked up a glass bed on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-Print-...item4d24af6708

its 0.25" thick. Im a newbee so I need some help I need to know how to install it and which shim to print I already printed this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:607871 but not to sure if it will work or how to install it. Also need to know which bed holders to print thanks for the help.

I have the Flashforge Creator Dual extruder

[darthvaper]

Thanks for nothing guy I did it my shelf, there so many experts but none to be found for my question lol

[sasabs]

You need a shim on the z axis to trip the limit switch earlier so glass does not collide with extruder nozzles. In your case you need a 1/4" to match the glass thickness. A good example is http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:440022.

You may have to adjust there thickness of the shim so the glass is within bed leveling adjustment range. Any of the corner clamps seem to work well except those that want you to remove screws from the bed

[Ghosty]

sorry, my internet has been crappy over the last few weeks, had i of seen your post i would have pointed you to mine

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...g-to-glass-bed

where you can see in detail the process i have gone through to swap to a glass bed, i actually removed the alu bed, saves messing about with shims etc, also as the glass is now closer to the heat plate i can run at a lower temp or sometimes not even heated at all.

im doing as others have and now using ultra hold hairspray and getting prints to stick like glue, then 5 mins after printing (crack) the build falls off, im guessing this is due to the natural effect of glass cooling and cracking away from the build.

[jfkansas]

No it is the part cooling and shrinking.

[sasabs]

sorry, my internet has been crappy over the last few weeks, had i of seen your post i would have pointed you to mine

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...g-to-glass-bed

where you can see in detail the process i have gone through to swap to a glass bed, i actually removed the alu bed, saves messing about with shims etc, also as the glass is now closer to the heat plate i can run at a lower temp or sometimes not even heated at all.

im doing as others have and now using ultra hold hairspray and getting prints to stick like glue, then 5 mins after printing (crack) the build falls off, im guessing this is due to the natural effect of glass cooling and cracking away from the build.

Down side of replacing aluminum bed is that you can't have several glass beds and remove them tot clean. and to stick in freezer to safely release models.

[curious aardvark]

well in your original post you'd already answered the questions yourself.
ie: found the shim and clips.

Not entirely sure what else would have helped.
Instructions for both would have been included in the individual thingiverse pages.

getting snotty because nobody answered your question isn't the best way to get your next question answered - when you might actually need an answer :-)

[Ghosty]

Down side of replacing aluminum bed is that you can't have several glass beds and remove them tot clean. and to stick in freezer to safely release models.

i have 3 glass build plates, all are removable and no i dont use the freezer, i just use my window sill that gets cold enough.

the idea of removing the alu bed was

1, to allow a unfixed (it not screwed down) surface to be used, just so happens glass is the best (well was, thinking the fiberglass flex plate mite be better) to use.
2, so i would not have to loose any z height (i know its only a couple of mm but that is alot)
3, so i would not have to bugger about with shims to limit the z height
4, to allow me to run the bed cooler (sometimes not even at all)
5, because i was getting f'ed off with the dam kapton tape tearing
6, see point above, the reason it would tear is cuase prints were virtually bonded to the surface, and as it was screwed in place i could not move/remove the print due to limitations of the wooden fram being in the way.

anymore i think of i will add, overall it has to be said that i have made the best choice, and im getting very good prints now, even making money from it, wont be long before its paid for itself

[curious aardvark]

Nice with the paid for prints - and removeable aluminium beds are on my shortlist of mods.

If you use 3mm aluminium then you don't need shims.
But i still haven't figured out how to make them removeable and still stay flat.
And the reason i'd like to is simple.
I could have a plate with hairspray, one with pet tape, and one with blue tape all ready to go depending on the print and material.
Plus you could just remove a plate and finished print, drop another plate on and continue printing.

It's a good idea - aluminium is what i can get for much cheapness. Just need to figure out the swapping system.

[Nargg]

I use these in the corners of the existing aluminum bed, just put the glass on top wedged in with these in the corners http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:715545
Also, the glass bed from flashforge-usa.com is only $20, not $30 like most others I've seen. http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/b...ate-glass.html

With this setup, I've got a couple glass beds. They easily slide into the brackets and back up. And it doesn't move around a bit (had to adjust the corner brackets a bit to get it just the right tightness, including filing the screw holes a bit.)