swapping to glass bed

[MakersomeGuy]

I like using hairspray... specifically Aqua net extra hold without scent. I spray it on my bed and let it dry. It's super easy and the prints come off really easy after it cools. A lot of times they release on their own. I have an instructional project on my site that might be of help for those looking for info on the glass bed upgrade. Check it out....

http://makersome.com/project/717

[Ghosty]

so after a few weeks of trial and error (on my part), i now have a fully (well sort of fully, ill explain later) working printer.

for those that are just catching up, i have completly removed the alu plate (unplug the electrics at the back, then undo the 4 leveling screws and the heated pad and alu plate pop off, then using a 7/32 spanner and a size 2 allen key you can undo all the bits required), i have then had 3mm float (same as picture frame) glass cut to size (using my now removed alu bed as a guide), using the corner brackets (link is in a previous post) modified in makerware to the correct z height, i now have a fully removable glass build plate (or 3) that requires no z shim etc, the only thing i would mention is dont over tighten the screws when installing the corner brackets, as the heated plate is not as strong as it looks.

so now thats out of the way, hows it going ??? well its actually going very good, i have now realised i dont have to heat the build plate at all, a simple run over with the PVP stick and all is stuck fine (still sticking like crazy), still have to work that part out, besides that im getting great prints, finally.

only issue i now have is im retting a lot of clicking (similar to when the feed is stuck) from the left stepper, i have taken the unit apart, and cleaned (even replaced) the toothed part, and its still happening, however it is still extruding pla, both in the pre print ozze strip and when printing, this only happens for the base (bottom 3 layers) and after that its fine. so etier its mis feeding, or im again missing something.

[jdg56]

I'm a 60C heat and hair-spray guy, myself. I've been having great results in the cooler dryer winter weather that way for my PLA printing. As it warms and moistens up, I figure I'll have to adjust things again. Last summer I was running mostly ABS.

Cheers,

John

[curious aardvark]

use pet tape, heat bed to 60-70c and when bed cools prints just lift off.

Most prints will lift at about 30c.

Much warmer than that and the pla is still soft.

So far I've had some realy great results with this combination. Only thing that hasn't worked is a chainmail bracelet.
They always printed - sort of - on blue tape but tended to break when trying to remove.

I'll keep fiddling.
But other than that - clean, flat non-warped prints. And a roll of tape will probably last years. As so far I haven't had to touch it with a scraper.

[Ghosty]

so after some play in the glass bed, i realised the corner brackets wernt holding the glass still (im aware its due to the heated plate) so i redesigned them to fit tighter and also stop the z movement by introducing a 45deg bevel, this however cause its own unique issue of coliding with the hotend when it extrudes at the end of the bed before printing.

so i have now made clearence for this.

only time will tell if its any better or worse, but for now it seems alot better as there is no movement at all in the glass now. and yes they are still hot swappable as i retained the 2 rear ones in there original design.

corner_clips_preview_featured.jpg

here they are and heres the link http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:795832

[MakersomeGuy]

We made a video detailing the install and what is needed. Check it out and let me know if you have any questions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNqkgjplGhc

[jasonfreeland]

Thanks for the video, I ordered one of your beds this morning.

[Nargg]

I put 4 of the corner brackets on the bed to hold the glass even firmer in place. I also have a few glass beds, so I can easily pop one out after a print to remove the model from that glass while another print starts going. A really quick, nice method to large print projects....

Only trouble I've run into is that the corner brackets are way too close to the filament spools, and sometimes even make contact. I'm trying right now to re-do some of the filament spool holders off thingiverse so that they hold the spools a little farther away from the bed.

[Ghosty]

ok guys, this is an interesting one.

while at work yesterday i ws thinking (i think alot at work), why not put kapton tape on glass as my only real issue was removal of print due to the fixed alu build platform, so today i wrapped one of my 4 glass platforms in kapton (i thought this stuff was redundant) and am now printing on it without any issues, parts are sticking like they should, not sure about removal yet, but as i can take the platform out now it should be easier.

on a side note i bought an action cam, so i can film things being printed now (well in a few days when it arrives) lol..

[Nargg]

ok guys, this is an interesting one.

while at work yesterday i ws thinking (i think alot at work), why not put kapton tape on glass as my only real issue was removal of print due to the fixed alu build platform, so today i wrapped one of my 4 glass platforms in kapton (i thought this stuff was redundant) and am now printing on it without any issues, parts are sticking like they should, not sure about removal yet, but as i can take the platform out now it should be easier.

on a side note i bought an action cam, so i can film things being printed now (well in a few days when it arrives) lol..

Awesome idea Ghosty, i'm getting tired of glue sticks and their iffy usefulness. Something has to make the surface sticky and I hadn't thought of the kapton tape on glass yet. Going to try right now.