Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
First off, you don't need a heated bed for PLA, generally. And if you heat it should only be around 40c. Second, generally you can just clip the glass on top of aluminum build plate. You will need to lower the build plate by compressing the springs or if that isn't enough you might need to shim where the switch is activated.


You can remove the aluminum though, it should just be phillips head screws. I think though you will have problems because the leveling screws would need to go through the glass. I guess you can have them drilled but I don't think glass likes to be drilled/chamfered and have screws tightened into it. It probably will break. The heat plate is a little too thin to countersink into.
I used to agree with the no-heat method, but in all honesty it just doesnt work on my flashforge. On my Kossel and I3 I print PLA on a cold glass bed with blue tape, Perfect!.

On my Flashforge however, PLA WILL NOT STICK without a minimum of 65c. Go figure