swapping to glass bed

[Geoff]

First off, you don't need a heated bed for PLA, generally. And if you heat it should only be around 40c. Second, generally you can just clip the glass on top of aluminum build plate. You will need to lower the build plate by compressing the springs or if that isn't enough you might need to shim where the switch is activated.


You can remove the aluminum though, it should just be phillips head screws. I think though you will have problems because the leveling screws would need to go through the glass. I guess you can have them drilled but I don't think glass likes to be drilled/chamfered and have screws tightened into it. It probably will break. The heat plate is a little too thin to countersink into.

I used to agree with the no-heat method, but in all honesty it just doesnt work on my flashforge. On my Kossel and I3 I print PLA on a cold glass bed with blue tape, Perfect!.

On my Flashforge however, PLA WILL NOT STICK without a minimum of 65c. Go figure

[sasabs]

After a lot of messing around I find that blue tape, no heat works reliably on my Creator PRO. The bed leveling seems to be more critical.
Nol luck with the blue pad they are shipping now.

[ngendo20]

Added a 1/8" thick high temp glass plate to our 3D printer. Found the bracket from thingivers to convert the printer to work with a glass plate. I CNC'd the bracket as the plastic one warps over time. I do about 3 good coats of hairspray letting the plate dry between sprays for getting the parts to stick. Works great with ABS and PLA, haven't had an issue with it yet and the hair spray leaves a more even coating then glue stick in my opinion. This makes it easier to level the build trey. When the part is done, I let it sit and wait for the glass to cool. the part comes off on its own when the plate cools with no force from pulling whats so ever