PEI Sheet for Bed Adhesion

[adamfilip]

My recent failure.. what a mess...anyone have any tips on how to remove plastic on the heater block and exterior of nozzle.
after this. i sanded the PEI with 1000 grit , hoping for better results

[clough42]

My recent failure.. what a mess...anyone have any tips on how to remove plastic on the heater block and exterior of nozzle.
after this. i sanded the PEI with 1000 grit , hoping for better results

Yeah. Heat the hot end to temperature and wipe off the plastic with paper towels. Use lots of layers so you don't burn yourself. You can get it pretty clean this way. If you really want it clean, you'll need to use acetone (for ABS).

DO NOT INTRODUCE ACETONE UNLESS THE HOT END IS COLD.

Just to be clear. It'll work great hot, but it may remove more than just the plastic. Like also your house. Acetone is extremely flammable.

Incidentally, it can also melt your contact lenses. This is also bad.

[adamfilip]

so far, sanding it seems to really help.. acting normal again. printing so well that i might keep the bowden

[dunginhawk]

After sanding make sure to wipe down with isopropyl alcohol. always do that anyway.

[adamfilip]

did that, my print that i was doing looks great, but warped in the end.
It seems like when i print a Skirt, its not as low as my first layer as it tends to curl up.

I set my pei bed heat from 110-120
would reducing my bed temp, help with warping with ABS

[dunginhawk]

So there are a ton of factors with warping.

1. how close to the edge of the bed you print. (more warp)
2. How evenly the heat bed heats (check temps in corners vs center)
3. If its an enclosed environment to retain said heat.
4. Size of part - Larger parts will warp more.
5. Infill percentage of the part (more infill, more cooling plastic to pull on corners)
6. What you are using to adhere part to bed.
7. Temperature of the bed.

I found with large parts, with a fair amount of infill (15% +) I create a custom brim. I use 123d design and create 20mm strips to match up to the sides of my part and make them .4mm in height (2 layers) then i import them along with my part in to simplify3d and line them up overlapping the main part (on the same plane) by a few mm. This fixes the issue of the part still curling at the brim point (the point of a brim in the slicer is to have it easily removed). Ive found this works very very well.

[clough42]

So there are a ton of factors with warping.

1. how close to the edge of the bed you print. (more warp)
2. How evenly the heat bed heats (check temps in corners vs center)
3. If its an enclosed environment to retain said heat.
4. Size of part - Larger parts will warp more.
5. Infill percentage of the part (more infill, more cooling plastic to pull on corners)
6. What you are using to adhere part to bed.
7. Temperature of the bed.

I found with large parts, with a fair amount of infill (15% +) I create a custom brim. I use 123d design and create 20mm strips to match up to the sides of my part and make them .4mm in height (2 layers) then i import them along with my part in to simplify3d and line them up overlapping the main part (on the same plane) by a few mm. This fixes the issue of the part still curling at the brim point (the point of a brim in the slicer is to have it easily removed). Ive found this works very very well.

Also the geometry of the part. Parts with long, straight filament strands between 5 and 10mm up off the bed warp a lot as the long strands cool and pull on the corners. Parts with holes that break up those long strands stay flatter.

Here's an example of a part (not mine) with holes that break up all of the long strands.

[adamfilip]

I noticed a weird thing when it was printing a brim and i paused it to check the gap and it was .3mm when i waited until it started printing the actual first layer of the part it was .2mm

[usarmyaircav]

I am going to try beerdarts idea of baby powder and lower bed temp tonight.

[adamfilip]

I dont get why babypowder?