New 12" user and I am LOST!

[usarmyaircav]

Yes. You're likely using Slic3r as your slicer. It defaults to a first layer height of 0.35mm.

kevin, is there a better first layer hight than the .35mm?

[printbus]

kevin, is there a better first layer hight than the .35mm?

We'll have to open the question up to others that have experimented with it. The Slic3r INI files from MakerFarm had the first layer height at 0.35mm, and I just stuck with it. When I migrated to Cura/Cura Engine, I ended up configuring it to match the first layer settings I had been using in Slic3r. Simplify3D doesn't have a setting for an explicit first layer height, but it does have a percent adjustment you can apply to the first layer. I've left S3D at the default first layer height setting at 90% of my normal 0.20mm layer height.

I would imagine that within reason, slicers should be able to provide consistent first layer results across a range of first layer height/width settings by adjusting the extrusion flow and line spacing accordingly.

[printbus]

...the test code I generated has G1 Z0.350 F6000.000 listed.

Decoded, the line is instructing the printer to go to a Z of 0.35mm at a speed of 6000 mm/minute, or 100 mm/sec. The i3v's can only handle a Z feedrate of 1.5 or maybe 2 mm/sec, but the printer double-checks all the feedrates in the gcode commands and will automatically only go as fast as the firmware is programmed to with the DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE values in the configuration.h file.

[tsteever]

I am going to try again as last night was a bust. Pronterface is working still...fingers crossed. I had to fiddle with he port and baud rate settings a bit as the first attempt gave me a baud rate error. I changed the baud rate, tried to connect and it failed. I then changed back to 250000 and tried again. This time it worked.

So, the big issue I am having is the first layers. I set the end stop using the following technique.

1)Heated everything up. I leveled the x carriage to the frame and then leveled the bed.
2) homed the bed using pronterface. lifted Z, moved to center and lowered z slowly and check how close it was to the glass. It needed to go down so I adjusted endstop.
3) homed again. moved z up and then to center. Checked with paper. Nope, still too high. I repeated this process till the nozzle was just grabbing the paper.
4) I loaded some code to the printer and ran it. I watched the skirt and first layer like a hawk and noticed that the ABS wasn't being smooshed. I stopped the print and adjusted the endstop.
5) Repeated this process till I got a smooshed base.

Once the print completed I looked at the bottom. There was some smooshing but the abs wasn't solid. There were gaps between the abs lines.

Also, the top was ...ugly. Not at all like what I have seen this printer is capable of.

I am going to run my z procedure again and then measure the distance the nozzle is at in the first line of code. What are the commands that will tell me what the nozzle is at? I'd like to compare what the printer thinks is happening to what the measurement is.

I still don't like how the endstop is behaving.

[printbus]

As sniffle said, really not all that bad of a first completed print. And as rhonal89 said, slic3r sort of has a reputation for being light on the top layer - it's often easy to spot Slic3r prints because of that. Is Colin still providing Slic3r v0.9.9? (dumbfounded) You do have the option to increase the top layer extrusion... I think I was up to 300% before I moved away from Slic3r. I've heard the very latest experimental rev on Slic3r has finally made some flow rate adjustments.

Have you calibrated the extruder yet? Don't scrutinize the bottom layer, the top layer, or really much of anything until you do.

The temperature of the build plate can make a big difference in how the first layer smooths out. You've told us you're printing in ABS - what nozzle and bed temperatures? They can vary from printer to printer and filament to filament, but we can at least confirm whether you're in the right ballpark.

Finally, this may not help with your USB woes, but it's probably safe to say that the USB interface on most of these printers is "delicate". It's especially easy to get things messed up if you're trying to do multiple things with different software talking to the printer. My pitfall is typically trying to upload firmware from the Arduino IDE while I still have host software connected to the printer. A fully robust recovery procedure typically entails closing the Arduino IDE, disconnecting the host software, closing the host software, unplugging the USB cable, sometimes turning off the printer and then back on, reconnecting the USB cable, and then restarting the software I was trying to use. In a few rare cases, I've had to log out/in or restart the laptop I use. Again, this may not be helpful to you but sharing lessons learned.

[tsteever]

never mind about the pronterface! Can't connect today! I get this error.

Attempted to write invalid text to console, which could be due to an invalid baudrate

What the crap?

[Cameron]

set your baudrate to 250000

[tsteever]

Couldn't do it, the run that is. It's bugging me. So I homed the z and then moved it up. I slowly moved it down .1 until it couldn't move any more as the printer says nope, you're are 0. I did a m119 command and the endstop says open! I hit the hone button and the nozzle gets pressed into the glass! I backed it up and did a m119 command after each move and it took .3mm before the trigger opened.It took a .7mm move just to get the paper out.

Do I need to redesign the endstop? Would an auto bed level help? I can't live with these inconsistencies as they can't be good for printing. Is there that much play in the endstop arm? They are the newer ones with the dollar on the end.

[tsteever]

It was. I tried the tty port @ 250000, the cu port at 250000, I tired it at every combination! I googled it, again! Read so many different things I don't know hat I tried and haven't tried! Something is off. At least when I connect I am connected to the printer as I can see it blink the lights and the LCD connects. I also have choices in the port menu. I didn't always have that! It is hit or miss it seems.

The consistent error I get is a baud rate error. Is there a way I can tell what the baud rate of my mac is?

Update...it is connected finally. I don't know what I did. I read a post somewhere instructing the user to manually home the printer and then try it. I moved the bed to home and held the z end stop down. Click and rechecked and it did finally connect.

WHAT? I need to figure this out. Too many issues going on right now and the frustration level at setting this up is rising to high. I'm going for a run...

[sniffle]

OK, you have to realize that your using a mac and sadly you have to figure most of that out for yourself, but once your connected and printing we've got your back :-)

So relax and breathe, we're here to help... but try to stay calm and analytical, because getting frustrated wont do anything but make it harder to get it working right.

Alright, now that you are connected to the printer, it's time to set you Z-height at the corner where the nylon spacer is. Once you do that it's time to level the bed.