New 12" user and I am LOST!

[Chadd]

A few more things for you,

1. I have not used Cura but I know with slicer you can set a Z offset position, the offset is applied to the Gcode when it is generated and adjusts all the Z positions by the offset you put into slicer.

2. As mentioned the thin build plate will warp and won't be flat, also be sure to check the nozzle height in the center of the glass because I bet you will see that you have a larger gap in the center than on the edges.

3. Be sure you either download the new firmware or change the speed settings for your Z home feedrate otherwise you will be chasing your tail on your Z home/height position.

4. You can also adjust your first layer height in Slicer so you can print a thicker/thinner first layer. With simplify3d you can also adjust the extrusion width for your first layer so you can put down more material.

5. I would re-check your esteps to make sure they are still accurate.

6. I have seen several people who recommend just putting in the "standard" size for your filament say 3mm and then printing test objects and adjust your extrusion multiplier for each roll of filament you use then note it on the roll of filament.

Now that my Z axis is homing is the same every time all the issues I had with first layers are solved, before I would have to stop 2 out of 3 prints on the first layer because of the homing issue.

Doesn't the G1 Z0.05 just move the printer to that location? For all 4 of those prints the bed was level and measured to be touching the glass prior to starting the print.

Also, printing too fast, do I just change all values to be 30mm or should the print speed be 30mm and all others be a percentage of that?

I am confused now about the extruder multiplier and the filament size. I thought that by putting in a multiplier it would make the changes for the material?

I am going to spend some time calibrating today it appears!

[TopJimmyCooks]

In gcode all positioning is relative until you tell it to position absolutely in relation to home. I think.

[Chadd]

In gcode all positioning is relative until you tell it to position absolutely in relation to home. I think.

Yep you have to make sure the machine is going to the same home position everytime you home it otherwise you are shooting a moving target

[tsteever]

I think you would be better off printing some calibration objects instead of actual parts. That way you can follow a guide on what you need to do to improve the parts and calibration of your printer/software. Otherwise you will be chasing your tail.

I use this set of calibration objects and followed the guide in the instructions on thingiverse

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5573

There are a lot of other tips out there for getting your machine to print well but until you have your base layer nailed down and your extrusion rate figured out you are just guessing.

When I calibrated my Esteps I tried to follow a the guide listed here on the forum but it wasn't even close when I calculated it based off of that guide. I ended up finding that 1 estep change =.22233 mm in extrusion length change. My esteps ended up at 878 "was 841 originally"

I am working my way through the guide and get to the part in his blog that says to look for sagging. I am getting closer to the .4mm wall but now notice a bit of sagging in the walls. The corners are slightly higher. He never says what to do if that happens.

If I add more to the multiplier the walls will increase, defeating what I am trying to do. If I read into the further statements he does say to lower the height per layer to .3, Would that help get rid of sagging?

[Chadd]

Do you have a picture of the part you printed?

I am working my way through the guide and get to the part in his blog that says to look for sagging. I am getting closer to the .4mm wall but now notice a bit of sagging in the walls. The corners are slightly higher. He never says what to do if that happens.

If I add more to the multiplier the walls will increase, defeating what I am trying to do. If I read into the further statements he does say to lower the height per layer to .3, Would that help get rid of sagging?

[tsteever]

I can, but the only camera I have is an iPhone. It doesn't take macro shots well at all. It isn't a huge sag. Just thought it was odd that he mentions to look for it, but not how to fix it

[tsteever]

Not sure if you can see the slight droop on these prints. It isn't too much but there non the less

I am still not happy with the finish on the top layer and the bottom looks like it needs to be a bit more squished in my opinion.

It looks very open compared to the purchased 3d parts I've bought. What settings can I tweak to get a better squish? The nozzle is already lowered to the glass less than the .35nfirst layer height. These are from the calibration thread.

[Chadd]

What program are you using to slice with?

Have you checked the nozzle height in the middle of the bed after you home it?

Not sure if you can see the slight droop on these prints. It isn't too much but there non the less

I am still not happy with the finish on the top layer and the bottom looks like it needs to be a bit more squished in my opinion.

It looks very open compared to the purchased 3d parts I've bought. What settings can I tweak to get a better squish? The nozzle is already lowered to the glass less than the .35nfirst layer height. These are from the calibration thread.

[tsteever]

Well, I was using Cura but the tutorial is written for Slic3r. I figured I would stay with what was written as i learn and then migrate those settings to Cura.

Yes, I just level the bed manually at the 4 corners and then I zero out the nozzle in the middle.

[Chadd]

How are you zeroing out the nozzle in the middle?

What material and temperature are you running?

Well, I was using Cura but the tutorial is written for Slic3r. I figured I would stay with what was written as i learn and then migrate those settings to Cura.

Yes, I just level the bed manually at the 4 corners and then I zero out the nozzle in the middle.