Not sure what you mean ... what is the problem? did you follow these instructions http://clough42.com/instructions/dou...r-calibration/
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Not sure what you mean ... what is the problem? did you follow these instructions http://clough42.com/instructions/dou...r-calibration/
Sorry for the late reply...I've been traveling.
I haven't heard of that being an issue in general.
Most slicers have some facility for managing the preheat and cooldown of the extruders. Slic3r tries to do this itself, but it also has logic that looks to see if your start and end GCODE is doing it and tries to stay out of the way. I don't know if you're having some kind of trouble related to this logic.
Make sure that your slicer is set up so it knows you have two extruders. Also check your end gcode to see if you have code in there to turn off both extruders. Here's the code I use:
START:
; 8" i3 & i3v 3mm ABS for .40 Hexagon Double 2014-11-28
M42 P5 S255 ; light on
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed to heat up
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0 ; start heating T0
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1 ; start heating T1
G1 Z5 F50 ; lift nozzle
G28 ; home X and Y axes
G29 ; auto bed level
G1 X0 F8000 ; move to side
G1 Y210 F8000 ; move off front
G1 Z0 ; Level for wipe
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0 ; wait for heat
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1 ; wait for heat
G90 ; absolute
T0 ; extruder 0
G92 E0
G1 E12 F50 ; extrude
G1 Y0 F8000 ; wipe
T1 ; extruder 1
G92 E0 ; reset extrude
G1 E12 F50 ; extrude
G1 E9 F50; retract
G1 X15 F8000 ; wipe
END:
M104 S0 T0 ; heat off T0
M104 S0 T1 ; heat off T1
G28 X0 ; home X axis
G28 Y0 ; home Y axis
M84 ; disable motors
M42 P5 S0 ; light off
M190 S0 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
The text in brackets, like "[first_layer_temperature_0]" is macros for Slic3r so it can insert the settings. The key code is the M104 S0 T0/T1 at the start of the end GCODE. This is what turns off the extruder heaters.
Can't find a thread for the single itty bitty extruder if someone knows where that would be.
I have the single setup and it is a great design and I love the fact that I can reduce the weight moving around on the axis. I think my prints will be better. I say will be cause I am having some intermittent issues. I occasionally will get skipping. I have tried adjusting the stepper driver and I have to have it at .4 to avoid the skipping but the motor get crazy hot. Right now it is pushing 80 degrees C!
Not sure what is going on. The nozzle is clean and so is the heatbreak. They are new as of this print. I am using maker farm 3mm black PLA. and am printing at 190 with a E3dv6 .4mm hotend.
What are some things I can try. I hate to go back to the stock extruder but if I can't get reliable printing I may have to. Are there better, stronger stepper motors than the ones Clough42 sells on his site?
here is the thread http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ingle-Extruder
towards the end you'll find my remix for the E3d Hot end.
My setup would skip too..which is why i went to the Dual. I think it may have something to do with the pulley configuration. The dual Itty bitty has a different pitch for the pulley setup. I think its more effective..
I now have the Dual Flex setup on a 1.75 E3d Machine and another on a 3mm Hexagon Machine both working perfectly.
So you are using the dual but in a single setup? What is your stepper set at? There is part of me that thinks there may be something else going on. The main wheel is hard to turn at times which led me to think the nozzle was clogged or that the heat is too low. I don't remember the large wheel being that hard to turn. Does the size of the wheel make that big of a difference?
No, actually im using it with a Dual setup..but i don't see why you couldn't just mount one side only. Then when you are ready, you can setup the other side. Your gears should spin freely with no belt attached, obviously with the belts attached and the printer "OFF" there will be some resistance since now the motor is engaged. And yes it is quite hard to turn manually for extruding than the stock Greg Extruder...you have to turn it much much slower..
If you have the RAMBO board like i do..my Digital Pot is set to 135 for my 3mm setup....on my 1.75 setup it is set to 100 since it requires less pressure to extrude the thinner filament, hence it wont skip.
here is a pic of when i had the single setup
here is my Dual Flex setup
Quick question about the height adjustment process.
In the instructions on Clough42's website, it says to run G28 (autohome), then G29, and then move the nozzle to the center of the bed and adjust the height and enter any z offset adjustement.
When I have been adjusting the height I have been doing it from where the carriage is at the end of the G29 process. Would this be causing issues with inconsistent height problems?
I am seeing problems lots of issues (way more than I was having with my stock Hexagon hot end setup) with first layer height. Sometimes it is so close to the bed no plastic will extrude, other times the nozzle starts hitting on previously deposited plastic.
Any suggestions on what else might be affecting the height that I should be looking at?
Thanks,
Bill
If your bed is flat, the place you test shouldn't matter. The bed isn't perfectly fiat, of course, so testing where you'll print is a good idea.
I have recently been struggling with the wood bed mount warping as the hot bed warms up and the heat soaks into the wood on my i3. I was chasing what I thought was extrusion problems and it turned out to be a Z height stability problem.
I have been printing with my first layer the same height as the others (.2mm) because the leveling has worked so well, but if you're having trouble, you can try a thicker first layer, as is usual for RepRap.
I have printed the alignment cube, and it's clear I have some ooze reduction work to do. But after printing, I realized that I didn't have the objects completely lined up on slic3r. isn't there a to align the objects in slicer?
How this works depends on which version of Slic3r you're using. Older versions have a menu item to create a multi-material AMF.XML file from a set of STL files. Newer versions of Slic3r allow you to load one of your STLs, right-click on the object and select Properties. This dialog allows you to load additional STL files and assign them to particular extruders.
The tool assumes that all of the STLs for a multi-material object are already aligned in the same internal coordinate system.
You still need to calibrate your printer so you can tell Slic3r the relative positions of your extruder nozzles. I have more detail here:
James
I am printing the AMF version and my extruders are within a hundredth of a millimeter, and I think that's acceptable. But I am also getting a hump in the middle of the part that isn't so good. the hump in nearly 2x the rest of the part. I wasn't concerned until I noticed it in other prints. My gcode prints the perimeters first and then the infill which is a single line. there is less gap than the bead it is trying to put down and it ends up on top of the perimiters, or atleast that's my current theory. am I flowing too much plastic. are my slic3r setting wrong?
Attachment 7882Attachment 7883
Huh. I haven't ever seen anything like that. It's kind of hard fromn the photos to tell exactly what's happening. Usually, you don't see the plastic pile up above the nozzle height like that. It usually gets squished down and comes out the sides. For it to pile up above the other layers, usually the nozzle has to move up.
I have 12" Makerbot I3V with Rumba board and graphical display.
Does anyone have same combination and can share their firmware for the itty double extruder?
I am noob when it comes to modifying the software so need your help please.
Here on the left is a picture of a printed 2mm washer before I switched to the itty bitty dual flex, and one the right after I switched. Any idea what's going on? ALL of my prints are coming out like this now. I uploaded the firmware, followed by M502 and M500. I printed a servo spacer and it came out 1/4" thick!
OK, lowering the extrusion multiplier is making a huge difference. I have used an extrusion multiplier of .90 in S3D forever and gotten great results. I'm down to .50 and getting ready to go a bit lower yet to get the right print.
I have all three jumpers installed, this board is just acting very strange. I may switch it out
So, in desperation I decided to take my RAMPS board apart and start all over.
And then I see that I had three jumpers on every stepper drive EXCEPT the extruder.
Mea Culpa!
Thank you to everyone that helped me!