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  1. #11
    Technologist Dargonfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    I did look at the new makerware desktop - really didn't like it. Might try it again.

    But assuming it's 100% compatible I'm pretty sure I'll buy a copy simplify3d.
    Has all the good bits from all the other software out there and a bunch of stuff none of them have.

    Right my questions were answered, so I'll be buying simplify3d - probably later today.
    I hope this doesn't become a trend lol
    Buying software, what's the world coming to ;-)
    I'm not sure if I already mentioned it; but I'm also using Simplify3D. And I've been really happy with the purchase.

    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff View Post
    Nice print! looks pretty good really, is it uniform like that all the way around, ie is there any stitching marks or did you use a random starting point for the layers?

    I always have suffered from a stitch line in the front left of my flashforge jobs, so I usually have that at the back of the model, it's not there if I print super slow, but once you get to 75feed/120travel, it is more noticable.
    Random starting point; so no stitching; the only mistakes are, as mentioned, the small pointy parts with large overhang - but I will fix this with lower temp and better duct fan!

    Quote Originally Posted by EeeK-Daz23 View Post
    That T-Rex skull turned out great, It all most looks like its had some Acetone treatment
    Since i want to mainly use ABS I'm trying to burn through the supplied PLA from Flashforge.

    Just curious what settings you are using?
    I am currently using 230c for extruder and 70c for heat bed with 3mm Retraction Distance seems to work fine at 2mm but not so much at 1mm. Also should i re-adjust the bed distance when going from 2mm to 1mm so its slightly closer to the nozzle?

    EDIT: I actually have no cooling fan for PLA just the default extruder fan which may or may not be my main issue when printing at 1mm..
    Thanks; since you're using Simplify 3D I can just share my profile (see attached)
    You don't have to re-adjust the bed distance; always leFlashForge-PLAv2.zipvel the same way - the software will do the rest.

    Having a duct fan is nessecary (at least for me, with my settings, in my environment) - I'm currently working on a improved version that docks a 60[mm] fan (more air; less noise) so that should be good!

    (unzip file and import in the process settings - do check if the right extruder is checked and check if the temp is good for your material (if possible; lower the temperature!!))

  2. #12
    Technologist Dargonfly's Avatar
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    As promised; the moment you've all been waiting for (yeah right..) !!


    Don't mind all the dust markings and fingerprints; I did this very hastily with 0 testing (this was the test.) Also; the lightning is a bit off; it actually looks like copper.


    Is this even printed??!


    Doesn't look printed to me!


    Ahhhh! Here I see some print lines! Not sure why these are so much more visible than the rest... maybe I didn't spray as much on this part?


    Overall pretty happy with the test.
    I sprayed (everything) with:
    - 2 layers of plastic primer
    - 4 layers of filler primer
    - 2 layers of copper chrome paint
    - 1 layer of clear coat

    The damage that was done due to non-perfect printer settings (pointy-large-overhanging-parts that curled up during print) are not visble anymore! But I will try to get rid of these with better printer settings.

    Notes for next time:
    - Wear gloves
    - Less layers on detailed parts (teeth)
    - More on parts with still visible printer lines
    - Hang parts on iron instead of placing them on the desk in my dusty garage
    - File off all artifacts around teeth / sharp parts.
    - Wear gloves

    Bonus shot:

    Hopefully this is all useful for somebody or at least you found it interesting to watch. I will keep improving my technique to finally be able to produce quality figurines with this printer!
    Maybe I'll improve the paint on this one by filing off the particles around the teeth and then giving the teeth another color with some acrylic paint. (I will do that some day...) or I will start working on the improved duct fan for the Flashforge creator dual!

  3. #13
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    That is fantastic !
    Also a surprise, as I wasn't expecting you to paint it gold !

    I'm not sure if I already mentioned it; but I'm also using Simplify3D. And I've been really happy with the purchase.
    lol no you didn't or I would have asked you about it - repeatedly :-)

    Two of the things the lady from 3dp unlimited showed me, that I really liked in simplify3d. The ability to have different infill (and probably other) settings for different models in the same print. Also the ability to automatically stop a print at any point. I want this for various bowls and vases.

    Total layer and temp control, etc etc.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Add Geoff on Thingiverse
    You could also work on some drybrush layering to get more texture out of the model, i.e so all the cracks are a darker shade etc.

  5. #15
    Student
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    Printing with our addon layer fan for the Creator X, we used the default setting used with Makerware (standard profile).
    We did not use heated bed and the extruder temp was set to 230c.

  6. #16
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    Dargonfly that looks great! Love the paint job. That t-Rex is such a fun model to print. I think it looks pretty impressive for a relatively short print time. My skull turned out good in ABS I just need to figure out a way to print that rod successfully. It's so simple yet giving me such trouble, lol!

  7. #17
    Technologist Dargonfly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Serena View Post
    Dargonfly that looks great! Love the paint job. That t-Rex is such a fun model to print. I think it looks pretty impressive for a relatively short print time. My skull turned out good in ABS I just need to figure out a way to print that rod successfully. It's so simple yet giving me such trouble, lol!
    Thanks Serena,
    I printed the rod by positioning it horizontally on the bed with a 0.2 layer height: round side bottom.
    If you can get your bed to stick enough then it should be fine. If the print comes lose during the print then either make the bed stick more, or turn down the print speed (to prevent it from tubmling over).

    But I think you could also print it vertically; just takes a bit longer and will create a tiny bit of cleanup for the second 'bulge'.
    Good luck!

  8. #18
    Is that link still valid? I tried to download the .zip and nothing happened.

  9. #19
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    link for what ?
    The t-rex skull is still on thingiverse.

  10. #20
    The link for the Print settings (temp/speed/fill)

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