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  1. #21
    Engineer
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    I used a spring clamp like this

    clamp.jpg to pull the Y motor back to tighten the Y belt, but I can't do the same for the X motor.

    I jokingly thought up a way to communicate exactly how tight the belts should be. But it requires the use of a guitar tuner or something similar. Just pluck the belt and find out what note it plays.
    Last edited by AbuMaia; 10-29-2014 at 09:29 PM.

  2. #22
    Engineer-in-Training gmay3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbuMaia View Post
    I jokingly thought up a way to communicate exactly how tight the belts should be. But it requires the use of a guitar tuner or something similar. Just pluck the belt and find out what note it plays.
    Haha that's a good idea. If you can play any note on your belts, they are probably tight enough.

  3. #23
    hey.

    i noticed that my printer wasent properly calibrated for a week ago when i tried to print out things that should get into each other.
    i have been done some calibration on my makerfarm printer. i tested to print a cube that is 20x20x20 mm

    it came out 22x22x20 mm,

    i have set up the wall thickness to 2 lines and they are about .5 wide.

    is it so that the printer prints the walls outside the modell or is it the steppers that need to be calibrated.

    is the printer adding the outlines on the inaede or outside of the modell? or can i change it in slicer to make to software to generate the walls on the inner side of the modell.

    wall (2 lines/.5) + modell (20 mm) + wall (2 lines/.5) = 22 mm

    is i thinking right now?

    my setup

    material: abs
    nozzle: .5
    ex multiplier: .9
    extruder steps 904
    ex temp: 225
    bed temp: 60 (using fleks3d printbed)
    x stepper: .43.9 mV
    y stepper: .44.3 mV
    z stepper: .44.0 mV
    e stepper: .44.3 mv


    any advice?

  4. #24
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melzk View Post
    ...any advice?
    About the only thing you can do in the slicer is change whether the outermost perimeter is printed first or last. If it's printed last, there's a chance that it will be squished to the outside more than if it is the first perimeter laid down.

    The XYZ steps per unit are set by the hardware design of the printer and shouldn't require alteration unless something like the number of teeth on the motor pulley changes. Before I changed the steps per unit to fudge the printer, I'd try another slicer for comparison. For example, if you used Slic3r to print this, try slicing with Cura and see if there's a difference.

  5. #25
    it was some setting in slicer that was wrong. i found a other config file and now it is 0.1 to small

    but i have an other problem
    how can i get rid of the rippels there is on the 11 and 12,
    i dont mean the layer lines, i mean that the layer lines arent aligned

    i have played around with the extruder multiplier, filament width (the filament had some diff), micron reselution. seems to bi a bit better when i tried to prit att 400 microns.


    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Melzk; 01-31-2015 at 03:19 PM. Reason: add text and images

  6. #26
    Did you ever get those layers fixed up Melzk?

  7. #27
    Engineer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melzk View Post
    how can i get rid of the ripples there is on the 11 and 12,
    i dont mean the layer lines, i mean that the layer lines arent aligned
    It looks like you have Z wobble/backlash. Are your Z rods constrained at the top and bottom? Do they sway as the Z goes up and down?

    You might look into using this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:769057 on each side to see if that gets rid of the ripples. Use one spring and two nuts in each.
    Last edited by AbuMaia; 04-17-2015 at 05:54 PM.

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