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  1. #1

    Which silicone heater? and Board?

    So I've pretty much had it with trying to solder the heat bed, and I know I've asked about it, but thought I make an entire new one for people who might have the same question in the future, and also asking about Boards. Is this heater too much? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1B1WAQGO&psc=1 it says 120V 750W, does that mean it won't work with 24V power supply, does it need to be a 220V like this one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1SM8KTJ&psc=1? Also Does it need to be a 300 x300? (it would be sticking underneath the mk2a aluminum bed, which is 315 x 315mm).
    EDIT: Update on the silicone bed, so 220V and 120V is for Solid State Relays, so this one will work with my 24V power supply? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/30X3...e-b5ac199315c8
    or this one because my 24V is only 500W and this will only leave 100W for everything else. While this one will leave 200W ish? https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https...IQpeihoM5p08x_

    About the board, I just bought a Duet Wifi for my HEVO (Hypercube Evolution), and I'm getting the Tronxy X5s soon in a week or so. I want to replace the board on that one but I want to try something other than Duet. I'm looking at a cheaper option but I'm thinking of RUMBA 8 bit board. Anybody used that before and what do you think about that one? Here's some info about the RUMBA http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA. Thanks again.
    Last edited by iamthebest22; 10-14-2017 at 01:57 AM.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Umm. if it says 120v - then it needs to be pluigged into the us mains. you know 120volts :-)

    You will need a mosfet to let the board control the pad while the pad draws power from the mains. ie: unless it says 12 or 24 volts it does not plug into the printer's power supply, but directly into mains 220volts for the uk and europe and 120 for canada and the states - cos' you lot have always been awkward buggers about that kind of thing :-)

    You bought a duet wifi !
    wow - nice guys, had a long chat with them at tct and they were running some really cool printers from the duet boards. Including one with a 6 way mixer head !
    Apparently the firmware is universal and everything is controlled and adjusted from an uploaded text file. Sounded great, but i already knew what they cost, and they're just way out of my budget range.
    But way to rich for my blood. In 30 years of building pcs I've never paid that much for a board, not even for a hi-end gaming system.
    I'm currently debating whether to fork out for a mks sbase - the 32bit arm version which will run smoothie ware (so i can borrow the tevo little monster firmware).

    The duet wifi is actually over 100 more than the mks sbase that even comes with a basic lcd screen !
    Is it worth it ?
    Honestly don't know.

    They also sell a delta effector made from circuit board that has flashing lights and built in sensors so you probe the board with the effector and nozzle acting as the probe.
    It's clever stuff - but not cheap :-)

    Had a look at the rumba - too hobbyist for me. I like specific sockets labelled and obvious - you know, for idiots :-)

    caved in and ordered an mks sbase 1.3 + basic lcd screen for 45.
    This way i can use the touch screen for the sbase and the lcd for the mks base which don't want to talk to anyone.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-14-2017 at 10:32 AM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamthebest22 View Post
    So I've pretty much had it with trying to solder the heat bed,.....
    Didn't I see some where that you are a teacher? Not trying to divert you from your current path ( silicone implant , eh, I mean heater ) do you have any friends at school who may be able to solder your current heater ( i.e. shop or electronic teachers )? Just a thought.............

  4. #4
    Hmmm okay, well i'll give the soldering one last try. Yeah my wallet has a deep hole now, but that should be fine when it resets next week xD. Hmm smoothieware, I dunno how I feel about them, I've never tried them before, and I actually have a file here (i'll copy paste) of all the boards that would work on the COREXY. It seems like smoothieware can have filament sensor installed on it (It's a must for me now on all my printers), The reason I didn't go MKS SBASE is because well I just don't like closed source, especially you can't change the drivers. Anyways here are the boards. I am thinking about getting another board for a future build (The SCARA or Simpson type), I'm looking at Drivers that can be exchanged, and must have a USB port that can be connected to Octoprint, which I just realized, that the RUMBA doesn't seem to have?
    Duet Wifi / Ethernet Duet3D.com 32-Bit Atmel SAM4E8E Open Source RepRap Open Source TMC 2660 Fixed 5, XYZ2 E0 E1 Yes, 2/5 drivers Wifi / Ethernet Integrated Webserver
    Re-Arm Panucatt.com 32-Bit LPC1768 ARM Open Source Smoothieware Open Source Any driver, requires RAMPS shield 5. XYZ2 E0 E1 Yes With Expansion Board Replaces Arduino, needs RAMPS Shield
    Azteeg X5 GT / Mini Panucatt.com 32-Bit LPC1769 ARM Open Source Smoothieware Open Source Any driver with Polulu Socket GT 5 / Mini 4 XYZ E0 (E1) Yes Ethernet (GT with expansion)
    Radds / Due RADDS.ORG 32-Bit Atmel SAM3X8E Open Source Repetier Open Source Any driver with Polulu Socket 6, XYZ2 E0 E1 E2 Yes No
    Replicape https://www.thing-printer.com/product/replicape/ 32-Bit AM335x1 from Beaglebone Open Source Propr. Firmware, Open Source TMC 2100 Fixed 5, XYZ2 E0 E1 No Information Ethernet Needs Beaglebone Black
    Smoothieboard http://smoothieware.org/smoothieboard 32-Bit LPC1769 ARM Open Source Smoothieware Open Source A5984 Fixed 5, XYZ E0 E1 No Information Ethernet V2 in development
    MKS SBASE https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1047297 32-Bit LPC1768 ARM Closed Source Smoothieware Open Source TI 8825 Fixed 5, XYZ E0 E1 No Ethernet
    Lerdge Board https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...6a73e34apWoMvz 32-Bit STM32F4 Closed Source Propr. Firmware, Closed Source Several Drivers available 4, XYZ E0 Yes WiFi Includes Display
    GEN 7 http://reprap.org/wiki/Generation_7_Electronics 32-Bit LPC1114 ARM Open Source Propr. Firmware, Open Source Any driver with Polulu Socket 4, XYZ E0 No Information No DYI board
    RAMPS / Arduino http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4 8-Bit ATmega 2560 Open Source Marlin, Repetier Open Source Any driver with Polulu Socket 5. XYZ2 E0 E1 Limited No Cheapest and very common solution
    Rumba Board http://www.reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA 8-Bit ATmega 2560 Open Source Marlin, Repetier Open Source Any driver with Polulu Socket 6. XYZ E0 E1 E2 No Information No
    MKS GEN http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_GEN 8-Bit ATmega 2560 Closed Source Marlin, Repetier Open Source Any driver with Polulu Socket 5. XYZ2 E0 E1 No Information No All in one solution for RAMPS
    MKS BASE http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_BASE_1.0 8-Bit ATmega 2560 Closed Source Marlin, Repetier Open Source A4988 Fixed 5. XYZ E0 E1 No Information No
    GT2560 https://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560 8-Bit ATmega 2560 Open Source Marlin, Repetier Open Source Any driver with Polulu Socket 5. XYZ E0 E1 No Information No Geeetech all in one board.
    Last edited by iamthebest22; 10-14-2017 at 01:32 PM.

  5. #5
    Ah okay so Aardvark, this one will work with my 24V power supply then for sure? https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https...IQpeihoM5p08x_

  6. #6
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    So, iamthebest22, your wallet should have recovered, what are you decisions on the heatpad? Fix or replace?

  7. #7
    My wallet is super burned now that I also bought the Tronxy X5S xD. I decided to buy a 100W solder, and with my old 25W one, fixed it in 1 minute.... lol. My soldering iron wasn't strong enough. However I found on Aliexpress lots of ones that came soldered, so next time I might just do that lol. However I did learn how to solder properly and have the proper tools now.

  8. #8
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    Well,congratulations on learning solder...

  9. #9
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamthebest22 View Post
    Ah okay so Aardvark, this one will work with my 24V power supply then for sure? https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https...IQpeihoM5p08x_
    IT's 24volt - so yep.

    Pretty sure Mks also do arm boards with stepper motor sockets.

    Now I went for the onboard ones for 2 reasons.
    1) it's a cheaper board and I'm all about not spneding money I don't have :-)

    2) given how amazingly my he3d delta prints - both hi-res and low res, slow and fast. And I haven't changed any firmware, stepper settings or driver modules. I'm of the opinion that 90% of all this messing with drivers, firmware etc just isn't necessary or going to result in faster or better prints. There does seem to be an awful lot of time and money wasted on changing firmware and drivers, when what's more important is fine tuning your slicer to work with your printer and local environs.
    Alexa has fairly basic stepper motor drivers, yet can turn out prints as good as anything I've seen online.
    Look at this way: I have a car for taking me and my junk where I want to go. It can go faster than the legal maximum speed limit, it can carry up to 6 passengers, or 4 and my crap in the boot. It's not a new or expensive car, but it can do everything necessary in a car.
    It won't accelerate to 60mph in 3 seconds or hit 150mph max top speed. But then I am NEVER going to use or need that.
    I think this messing about with stuff that won't make any practical difference is in the same league. Instead of actually learning how to use their printers properly, people think that throwing money at it is a viable alternative and will magically improve their prints. It won't, at some point you will still have to put the work in learning how to tune your slicer for your printer and environment and materials.

    Spending 150 + for a board that is going to run a fairly basic printer is ludicrous.
    If on the other hand you are making a large printer with 6 extruders and a mixing nozzle (like duet have) - then, yes it's a good idea.
    But for a fairly ordinary 3d printer it's like me repalcing my car's 1.6l engine with a 3 litre turbo charge 500 hp monster. All that will happen is that I'm far more likely to get caught speeding and I'll spend 3 times as much money on fuel :-)

  10. #10
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    While I agree with most of what you said, CA, the only firmware update I am considering is to add distortion correction. I think that is a needed additional that is already in most repetier builds. I consider that a miss on the part of the HE3D team. They did however send me the firmware and configuration.h file used so I can make a single change.

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