Close



Page 8 of 9 FirstFirst ... 6789 LastLast
Results 71 to 80 of 81
  1. #71
    Are the legs 1"x1"? Or something metric like 20mm?

  2. #72
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    4,831
    They are sensibly metric, as all precision measurements should be :-)
    it's 2020 aluminium extrusion: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aluminium-E...nium+extrusion

    Or to be more accurate:
    2020 Aluminium Extrusion Profile 20mm T Slot/ Slot 6



    So we move on from building to slicer settings.
    Here's why you need to make sure you have 'don't cross model' switched on.

    Now the weird thing is that I don't get any stringing when printing multiple objects, just when its crossing the model.
    The head movement is so fast and smooth that having it go the long way round is not an issue.

    I've just changed my simplify3d settings to these:

    So that's today's lesson :-)

    Part 2: well that didn't work. So I've just upped the 'avoid crossing outline' setting to it's 999 maximum.
    see if that works !

    ***

    That's more like it. So todays lesson. Don't bugger, about just set it at 999 and forget about it :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-19-2017 at 10:29 AM.

  3. #73
    Just noticed where you placed your springs. You have three of them in the right place, but the other three need to go up toward the roller guides.


  4. #74
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    4,831
    why ?
    They actually walk their way up the arms anyway.

    And I think if i re-tick 'force retraction between layers, it might also get rid of the stringing.

  5. #75
    The springs are to take up the slack in the heim joint.

  6. #76
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    4,831
    they also do that at the bottom. if you slide them up to the top (just tried it) they will rub and catch on the belts - and that's probably a bad thing :-)

    Given that my carriage is rock solid and she prints like a machine costing 5x more - I'll leave them at the bottom ;-)

  7. #77
    I was referring to the springs that you have at the "V" between the sets of arms. Moving them up to the top to stabilize those joints. But, since they will rub the belts....bad idea.

  8. #78
    Excellent documentary on your delta, congrats. I have a SeeMeCNC ROSTOCK V2 (previous version of this - https://www.seemecnc.com/collections...rinter-diy-kit), just love the delta configuration. It has a spring gizmo on the arms but it attaches to the same set of rods instead of the next arm over. Maybe I'm not seeing it correctly from your photo, I guess if it works for you then don't mess with perfection.

    If you are having problems with the springs 'walking' maybe you can print a 'c' shaped clip and snap it over the ends of the springs to keep them from moving.

    C-clip2.jpg
    Last edited by wkarraker; 06-21-2017 at 07:05 PM.

  9. #79
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    4,831
    little cable ties are what I'm using to stop the springs walking. Cheap, and effective.
    I know it'e tempting, but sometimes non-3d printed solutions are easier :-)

    I've got the springs at the v's where the pairs of arms meet and on the three pairs as well.
    It works. There was a small amount of play before I fitted them and none now.

    My next job is to make a cooling fan bracket. Made a pet-g tool last night, the broom handle socket is pretty rough. But who prints pet-g at 75mm/s and no cooling fan ? lol
    It was also the first 0.2mm layer prints - no problem.
    So I'm wondering if I can print 0.1 layer height at 150 mm/s Now that could be interesting :-)

    So as the fan fits on the heat block and that gets pretty warm, I've decided to simply get a thin sheet of metal, drill a few holes, bend it and attach a fan to that. Most of the deltas I've seen have a similiar arrangement with the cooling fan just held up and at an angle at the side.
    Seems pretty straightforward.
    Just need to look at the board and see if I need a three wire fan or a two wire job.
    Also check that standard computer screws will fit the holes in the heat block, as I've got no more of the bolts left.

    Oh yeah i also made the simplest mod yet. a 20mm wide, 4mm thick, 100mm long bar that simply bolts onto a strut and you clip a webcam on the end.
    Gives me a pretty decent angle for build videos, no vibration so the camera doesn't wobble, and because it sticks out to the side, the carriage doesn't block much of the view.
    Still playing with best position, but works pretty well. Using the free version of video velocity for time lapse videos. Probably acquire the pro version at some point for hd recording. Very comprehensive and easy to use software. Pretty much the only limitation on the free version is that the video is limited to 640x480.

    Camera mounted on top of the printer:


    Using it side mounted:


    And before anyone asks, I have no clue what make the webcam is. It was on my desk. Someone probably gave it to me as I don't remember buying it.
    Nothing special, but does the job.

    I use wondershare dvd slideshow deluxe to make my final videos. Very easy to use while at the same time having pretty much every feature you could want.

    I've just ordered a 25mm 12v 2 wire fan. The trick is going to be keeping it close to extruder. With the extruder at the full 200mm diameter the carriage is pretty much touching the rive belts. Going to have to think about this. Couple of available screw holes on top of the extruder carriage. Maybe a duct with small nozzle that comes down between the bolt holders on the carriage.

    Got a busy long weekend so can't see my getting this done before next week.
    Plus fan might not get here till monday.

    Thinking time :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-22-2017 at 10:55 AM.

  10. #80
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    4,831
    Meanwhile, back at The Aardvark Burrow, I think I've worked out how to use the 1watt laser from my super tiny laser engraver, with simplify 3d to use the printer for laser engraving.

    Looks like it's a simple gcode command to switch the ramps board into laser printing mode. A black and white image can be extruded. print the first layer, theoretically it should work.
    Just got to extend laser wires and make a bracket for it.
    Once it's in laser printer mode. It will burn on g1 moves and not on g0 moves. Which is presumably how the printer handles plastic extrusion anyway. So it ought to be as simple as creating a seperate profile in s3d with laser on and laser off in the start and end scripts. The printer profile should do everything else.
    Sounds too easy - so we'll see, lol

    Actually looks like if I mount it on the side of the heat box cooling fan with a cable tie (I'm all about hi-tech), I can leave it there. The only other place would be where the cooling duct is going to go. Plus on the side of the heat box - which will be off when lasering - it'll get a little active cooling as well.
    Might have to drop my top print speeds a little, but can't see these two add ons being too heavy for her.

    Hell I could probably print and engrave the wood filament in one operation.

    We shall see.
    Stay tuned....

Page 8 of 9 FirstFirst ... 6789 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •