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  1. #241
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    well to be fair, probably the first 20 or so pages were us making things.
    The rest is us making other things that aren't necessarily anything to do with the he3d 200 :-)

    I'd say that of the stuff on my thingiverese page for the he3d 200 - the effector & fan duct are essential.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2386628
    The feet, cable snake, endstop bracket, filament holder, base cover and power supply brackets are all optional extras.
    They do turn the basic kit into a really impressive machine, but optional :-)

    So what's with the gearing thing then #40 ?
    If I were considering buying one of these (I'm not honest, I'm broke) where would be the best place to get it? I'm in the UK.

  2. #242
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    The original sheet i bought a couple of years ago, you scored and snapped.
    Not sure I'm overly happy you can cut it with scissors, we'll see.

    It's just arrived. It's quite bendy. More cuttable than scoreable I think. It's 0.6mm thick.

  3. #243
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Insulated the bottom of the heat bed today with some foil tape. Used 2 layers
    Definitely seems to heat up faster.

    Also remembered some one saying If you set the temp past where you want it, it will heat up faster.
    Yep.
    I did time it to 70c the other day. took 12 minutes.
    However if I set the target temp at 84c - it hits 70 in 2-3 minutes !
    Not sure how much is due to less heat lost and how much just to setting it past the actual temp.
    When set to 70c, It basically surged to 65c and then ground to a halt, and crept up very slowly.

    Going to experiment to see how much past the actual temp you need to go.

  4. #244
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    don't know how much use it is. But it is interesting to see how careful the system is to get the right temperature.

    Mind you that said, it usually settles on 54c on 50c setting :-)

    ***

    well tape definitely makes a difference. Instead of her usual 54/50 running bed temp.

    She's currently settled at 59/50
    Kinda weird.

    Presumably this means I can set the temp at 40 and it'll run at 50 :-)
    lol
    Having a go at a print in place iris box.
    running at 60mm/s - slowest I've ever done pla on alexa.
    Curious to see if it makes any difference.

    Also thinking about a cheap chinese knock off bl-touch.
    The genuine ones all come from south korea. If you see one for £10 less that's shipping from china - It's not genuine. But might still work.
    And on the bltouch website it does say that it's based on opensource technology. So can't really complain when someone copies it.

    If you don't want your stuff to be copied - don't make it opensource :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-28-2017 at 02:54 PM.

  5. #245
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    simplify3d 4.0.
    Is starting to really annoy me.

    Having backed up my hardrive, I unleashed 168 windows updates on my poor computer yesterday. Approx 14 hours later, everything installed and to my astonishment - the computer still works and, so far, nothing crashes and nobody snuck windows 10 installer on it either. Amazing !

    But does simplify3d 4.0 install and work ?
    Don't be daft, you're having a larf, of course it doesn't.
    That said I did just do a straight install.
    Not sure if it was still installed.

    So probably need to uninstall s3d, uninstall c+2015 then install c++ 2015 seperately and then try a reinstall of s3d.
    But, I mean why ?
    Every other version just went on and worked.
    I realise it's most likely microsoft telling people that if they want it to run on windows 10 they have to use c++ 2015. despite the myriad of issues it has. Just do a quick search online and you'll see just how much hassle it causes.

    I'll go back and have another go in a bit, when i'm thinking happy thoughts again :-)

    ***

    Finally !
    So it works, now to see if it was worth the effort of installing it.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-29-2017 at 06:43 AM.

  6. #246
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    So I'm going to do another iris box.
    After a lot of effort, hittign it with an axe etc, I eventually went back to thingiverse and read the instructions.
    Turns out there are 16 little tabs you have to break to get the damn thing to work.

    So - yes I does work, really well.
    So just sliced same file with s3d 4.0, curious to see if there's any discernible difference.
    Got to admit, the model limitations aside - it was a really clean print.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1817180

    Be aware that once you've remove the tabs you still have to work your way around the base with a screwdrive, levering till it clicks. The irises were fine, no fettling needed there.
    I'll add some pics in a bit.
    But on the whole a very impressive print and one - that like the secret heart box - you won't print unless you're printer is dialled in properly. :-)

    Oh yeah. After i'd removed the bed and taped it up and put it back. I didn't calibrate or redo z. And she still printed a working iris box :-)



    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-29-2017 at 07:34 AM.

  7. #247
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Few more pics.

    taped bed:


    Used a stain/varnish on the woodfill acorn brooches. There is no way unless you told them that anyone would think these were anything but carved from wood.


  8. #248
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Both iris boxes identical, took same time to print. No issues with either.
    So far no obvious differences or improvements in s3d 4.0 over 3.1
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 08-30-2017 at 06:23 AM.

  9. #249
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    don't see why - you can get usb cables 3m long that still work.
    Same sort of data transfer and voltage.
    I'm probably only looking at 60 cm or so.
    The holder will clip onto either the top or one of the supporting cross pieces.

    Ordered the struts last week - hopefully should turn up soon.
    150cm three mains and 415mm for the 6 side pieces. Basically just scaled everything up from the k200.
    Once I've got them I'll start making the corner pieces and get the build plate cut.

    Should have probably gone to pick it up, but can't spend that long in a car at the moment.

  10. #250
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    nah doesn't work when you click on it - why not just upload to the forum ?
    makes life a lot easier.

    The little pics look interesting :-)

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