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  1. #1

    Advice on heated bed & surface

    I am brand new to 3D printing, just finished building a Purse i3 clone and I am currently using painters/masking tape on the heated bed. It is a pain because it sticks to the bottom of objects and its hard to remove from the bottom of the object. So I have some questions.


    * I understand that because I am using an auto level sensor I cannot use a glass plate on the bed. So is there anything else that I can use to get PLA to stick instead of painters tape that will not be a pain to remove from a finished print object?


    * If painters tape is the way to go, how do you clean-up the print's bottom to clean off the tape residue? I know acetone will help but may warp the PLA object, is there another way?


    * I have tried printing on the metal bed itself but PLA does not stick (nozzle @210, bed @60).


    Thanks in advance for any advice.

  2. #2
    Engineer-in-Training iDig3Dprinting's Avatar
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    HI,

    I am surprised that you are having such an issue with masking tape sticking to the bottom of your model. It is usually quite easy to removeand does not get "stuck" to the model when you take it off.

    There are alternatives to masking tape. We also use Kapton tape with a layer of thinly spread PVA or you can use glue stick instead. The other alternative is hairspray, cheap and cheerful seems to work best where the hairspray would essentially turn your hair into an immovable plastic lump on your head.

  3. #3
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    I'll diasagree with idig. I was always getting blue crap stuck permamently on the bottom of models.

    I recommend Printbite. It should hopefully work with your sensor.
    It's a 1mm thick rigid sheet.
    You don't need any glue, tape or ever need to use a scraper or worry about release. Get the settings right and it just works.

    It sounds miraculous, and compared to all the tape and glue methods - it actually is.
    You do need a heated bed - and you've got one so that's good.
    One sheet should last the life of your printer, so it's also the cheapest method you can use in the long term.

    My thread on it here: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ntbite-surface
    Skip to page three for list of materials I've tested and the outcome.

    Currently there is no better option for pla. I also use it with polyflex, pet-g and all pla variants. Plus a bunch of the newer filaments that came out last year.
    Sticking and removing are not things I need to worry about any more.

  4. #4
    Engineer-in-Training iDig3Dprinting's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    I'll diasagree with idig. I was always getting blue crap stuck permamently on the bottom of models.

    I recommend Printbite. It should hopefully work with your sensor.
    It's a 1mm thick rigid sheet.
    You don't need any glue, tape or ever need to use a scraper or worry about release. Get the settings right and it just works.

    It sounds miraculous, and compared to all the tape and glue methods - it actually is.
    You do need a heated bed - and you've got one so that's good.
    One sheet should last the life of your printer, so it's also the cheapest method you can use in the long term.

    My thread on it here: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ntbite-surface
    Skip to page three for list of materials I've tested and the outcome.

    Currently there is no better option for pla. I also use it with polyflex, pet-g and all pla variants. Plus a bunch of the newer filaments that came out last year.
    Sticking and removing are not things I need to worry about any more.

    You are not allowed to disagree with us

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