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Thread: Warped Prints

  1. #1

    Warped Prints

    Printing ABS white with 110 bed with raft and getting warped bottoms. I'd like to go raftless if possible too. Suggestions?

  2. #2
    Hello There...

    There are way to many theories about how to stop the corners warping. And in the four months of solid printing 3d, I've only come across one that works. Use a raft.

    I too use 110C as the bed temp, and on nearly all my smaller prints, I have pretty much zero warp. I do use kapton tape on a glass bed. But for large long prints, I often use a raft.

    Consider using good quality filament, as I do believe that helps.

    Cheers..!!!

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ixlr8 View Post
    Printing ABS white with 110 bed with raft and getting warped bottoms. I'd like to go raftless if possible too. Suggestions?
    Sometimes 110c is too hot! drop it to 105c and see how you go, also you could be printing too hot - drop the nozzle temp a little too. If you print too hot, when it cools to 110c its warping because like anything that's hot that cools down, it shrinks - the idea is to find the balance.

    Checkout these pictures - kapton tape, stock hotbed.

    All I can say is level that hotbed, and when you have done that - Do it again! trust me.

    First picture - I can print full size 450 quadcotper arms, edge to edge without raft - and no warp at all. I CANNOT do this on a glass heated platform, I just cant.

    I print these at 105c hotbed and 225c nozzle, if it was white 108c and 228c nozzle.




    An the second example - a 5mm thin hollow wall with 200 divets in it (I made beado trays for my kids) Printed 15cm high, no warping - no curling.


    Warping problems, been there done that - solved it.

  4. #4
    Thanks MrWayne and Geoff,

    I'm going to try some different settings like you suggested. I understand the white ABS is a tricky beast anyway?

    Is everyone using 1.75mm for the stock filament thickness? Just curious.

    I'm using 230 extruder temp normally for white ABS - forgot to add that above. Stock bed with kapton.
    Last edited by ixlr8; 03-23-2014 at 08:56 PM.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ixlr8 View Post
    Thanks MrWayne and Geoff,

    I'm going to try some different settings like you suggested. I understand the white ABS is a tricky beast anyway?

    Is everyone using 1.75mm for the stock filament thickness? Just curious.

    I'm using 230 extruder temp normally for white ABS - forgot to add that above. Stock bed with kapton.
    If a corner is warping, and then you turn the model and print it in a different direction, does it still warp in the same corner? technically it should, which would be a slightly unlevel hotbed.

    I just had a big argument with flashforge in the phillipines (only know them through facebook) I saw a print on their page that was really warped, and I said that's probably not a good example print to show, so they go and post all my good prints in their page - thats cool, no worries. Then the guy from philipines flashforge goes on to tell me to fix my warping problem I need a glass hotbed. So I said, #1 I dont agree, Ive tried and it's not as effective in transferring heat evenly as aluminium, look at my prints buddy I said, do I have any friggin warping issues? im trying to help you, but being the company of course they know best... but then I said #2 if you think its so much better,then sell your damn machines with them! pyrex isnt expensive, if they can sell a bong made of pyrex for $20, they can make a 22cmx15cm sheet even cheaper.

    I can also offer another suggestion, this is how I level my hotbed:

    I use a standard A4 piece of paper, full size.

    1. Do the standard levelling in the menu first, tighten the screws 4-5 turns each and level it like you normally would.

    2. Run the levelling script again, BUT BEFORE you run it, put the A4 sheet on the hot bed, and DON'T tighten the screws this time.

    3. The bed will start the levelling script - and with any luck that a4 paper will get squished in between the bed and the nozzle and you wont be able to move it. I say that's good because you want to be on the tighter side, not the looser side of things.

    Now, adjust the thumbscrews when you are asked to in the right order, but all the while keeping the paper on the hotbed. Jiggle the A4 sheet till it moves a touch and its just got some friction, then move on to the next area to level.

    The idea is, instead of trying to slide it under the nozzle each time to test it, its already there - making it a much faster levelling process. I often repeat this 2-3 times if I am printing a very large part, say, like a predator mask..





    All plastic, be it PLA or ABS can be a bit funny, after a couple of years now and the amount that I have ordered, I think I've been though most of the quirks they have, i'll try and run down in brief.

    The country of manufacture makes a big difference, avoid India (#1, avoid india.. their plastic is awful. Full of particles and debris, thats why its dirt cheap.)

    Colours make a big difference also, I find as a rule the brighter the colour, the less the filament needs to melt. I start at 222c and test print until its printing "dry" i.e without any goop being left behind or spiderwebs when the nozzle moves.
    Last edited by Geoff; 03-23-2014 at 09:44 PM.

  6. #6
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    geoff i agree. my printer came standard with glass. i used it awhile and its ok but i took some temp readings all over the plate and the temps varied about 20 deg or more. i got a 1/4" thick piece of mic6 aluminum. i took some temp readings and there is only a 2 deg variance from any point. aluminum is def better for that. i dont really use kapton though. i glass beaded one side of the mic6 then use hairspray. works well with abs. the kapton works great too but with the plate treated i dont have to mess with the tape. i still get a little curl with either one of them but its not too bad. your not really going to stop mother nature completely.

  7. #7
    Is there any reason to adjust the filament thickness in the gcode? (Other than the obvious)

    Also I read that people are printing ABS and PLA with only 60 beds? How are they getting away with that?

  8. #8
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ixlr8 View Post
    Is there any reason to adjust the filament thickness in the gcode? (Other than the obvious)

    Also I read that people are printing ABS and PLA with only 60 beds? How are they getting away with that?
    Yes, as filament has a variance. I personally set mine to 1.80mm as I found setting it to 1.78 gave me alot of clicking and filament slipping problems.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff View Post
    Yes, as filament has a variance. I personally set mine to 1.80mm as I found setting it to 1.78 gave me alot of clicking and filament slipping problems.
    What does this parameter actually change? Is feedrate and tool speed affected by this variable?

  10. #10
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ixlr8 View Post
    What does this parameter actually change? Is feedrate and tool speed affected by this variable?
    I really have no idea to be perfectly honest. Like yourself, no manuals anywhere or troubleshooting guides so just trial and error when I came into problems.

    I bought a reel of Crystal Clear ABS (I think called "High Impact Crystal Clear") Essentially tho, it looks like all the other clear ABS. .. nothing special. However, when I went to use it it would click click click click, and the thing would not feed... tried all the temperature setting sunder the sun, and nothing helped, nothing.

    So started playing around with other settings, and eventually after changing the filament diamenter from 1.75 to 1.8 in replicatorG, all my problems went away with that filament. It now feeds perfectly. Having pulled these apart now into complete bits, there is no way that it affects the actual diameter - so all I can think if is it does something to the feeder gear - but that's what controls the resoution, so Im still a bit hazy on it. You have a 0.4mm nozzle on the machine, so printing at 0.2mm seems to just slow the feed as well, how it makes it thinner I really don't know to be honest. All I know is the second I changed it to 1.8mm diameter in the settings, the thing printed like a dream.

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