Help printing ABS

[mopar]

Kevin, I noticed new version has a few more settings but the majority are in both. The config Makerfarm supplies has a lot of settings at zero/default as well so what I did was start with a blank scli3r 1.2.9 changed every setting in 1.2.9 that's in 0.9.9 to match the older then saved it( I know it's the same as loading the 0.9.9 but this way I know all the setting and nothing is getting messed up on the import). Now it's a 7matter of finding why the 0.9.9 slic3r worked and 1.2.9 doesn't with all the settings the same. I'm guessing that even though a setting may be blank it's still used for calculation somewhere and that the default value 1.2.9 uses is different than 0.9.9, but not knowing what each setting is supposed to control and when to chamge it I was hoping someone that's had same or similar problem could point me in right direction.

In my line of work with things people have learned over the years the people have a tendency to not just hand them out to beginners as they want them to learn the hard way like they did. It's almost a rite of passage kind of thing. Home 3d printing people I've noticed aren't usually that way, but I've run across a couple that seem to be.

[printbus]

The way you went about migrating the Slic3r config files to a newer version is the same thing I did; that's quite different than using "the same config files as 0.9.9".

I last used Slic3r v1.1.7. What I can tell you is that in the half dozen or so versions I used between 0.9.9 and 1.1.7, getting different print results each version was essentially a given. People assume newer versions mean "better". IMO, it might be more appropriate to view new versions as "different". I moved away from Slic3r after growing frustrated having to re-engineer print settings each version.

What I do remember is that 0.9.9 arguably under-extruded by quite a bit. Newer versions improved on it, but that'll lead to your prints coming out different. FWIW, my v1.1.7 settings, used with Slic3r as the slicer underneath my Repetier Host software at the time, is here - http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?3461-MakerFarm-8-quot-i3v-Prusa-build-by-Printbus&p=39620&viewfull=1#post39620

I think Slic3r is the middle scroll-block of settings in that post. Note the block starts with a summary of my Marlin configurations. If you compare to what you're running now, you'll probably see I tweaked the Z-axis in order to minimize the time the hot nozzle soaks onto the print while waiting for the Z-axis to accelerate and move. EDIT: Well, the settings are what I used for PLA. I never did much with ABS.

I'm not sure I'd say 3D printing is a right of passage sort of thing. In my case, I think it's more fair to say that I grew to realize there's no single set of print quality expectations, no two identical MakerFarm printers, and hence, no singular answer to what the "correct" settings are to use.

[Swapnil Sansare]

Proper bed adhesion is very important while printing ABS, try using ABS acetone slurry. Also the bubbling is caused due to moisture in the filament or high temperatures, store your filaments in moisture free environment.

[mopar]

Been busy the ast couple of weeks. I've been experimenting with different settings, mostly the extrusion multiplier and nozzle temps. I seem to get the best with a factor of .9 and temp around 225. Lower and the nozzle plugs up. My new PLA came in so now I need to get the settings for 1.2.9 to work correctly. Thanks for all of the help everybody.

[Alibert]

As to ABS, I use a glass bed and 3DLac spray and 95C bed temp.

When the ABS footprints are largish, I have recently being experimenting with modifying the bed heating in S3D to:

1st layer 100 C
2nd layer 95 C
3rd layer 90 C
4th layer 85 C
5th layer and higher 80 C

That way the first layer is bonded very well, and the bottom part cools a bit off (and shrinks) while the part is being built up. 3DLac will still hold very strongly at 80C.

I have now ordered a compact 150W ceramic hot air heater to heat the enclosed printer (metal frame) to 55C with a temperature regulator unit to get a consistent ambient temperature around the printed parts. I will let you know how that works out when I have done the experiments.

[dunginhawk]

Dont print abs use PETG. all the benefits (and more), no warping. no need for heated chamber

[Alibert]

Dont print abs use PETG. all the benefits (and more), no warping. no need for heated chamber

I love PETG too, but it does not have ALL the benefits. ABS still has a much superior glass transition point which is needed for higher temperature applications (places where application temp exceeds 50-60 C).

[mopar]

Haven't looked into PETG really. I like the thought that it doesn't need a heated area, which is why I decided to stick with PLA. Nothing I've worked on recently, nor any of my future projects require the need for a heat resistent plastic. Haven't worked on PLA settings for slic3r 1.2.9 yet, but hopefully I get quicker results than I did with ABS. Gonna look into PETG now. Thanks!

[Geoff]

Dont print abs use PETG. all the benefits (and more), no warping. no need for heated chamber

Have to strongly disagree on that one. I've printed in ABS for years with perfect results, PETG is a pain in the ass, there is no two ways about it. On 7 printers tested, it is never consistent between extruders, where as ABS acts the same no matter what printer I use.

I understand you have had great success with PETG - but me mindful that alot of these printers were not originally designed to print with it - it didn't even exist as a filament when I bought my printer so we were stuck with ABS. After using PETG in several prints, I still do not think it is anywhere near as rigid as ABS in fact I'd even go as far to say PETG is closer to a flexible filament.

[dunginhawk]

Have to strongly disagree on that one. I've printed in ABS for years with perfect results, PETG is a pain in the ass, there is no two ways about it. On 7 printers tested, it is never consistent between extruders, where as ABS acts the same no matter what printer I use.

I understand you have had great success with PETG - but me mindful that alot of these printers were not originally designed to print with it - it didn't even exist as a filament when I bought my printer so we were stuck with ABS. After using PETG in several prints, I still do not think it is anywhere near as rigid as ABS in fact I'd even go as far to say PETG is closer to a flexible filament.

I completely respect your opinion but I have also tried petg in many printers 6 different brands to be exact... Its NOT easy to print with, it oozes more than ABS or PLA and you need to seriously dial in retraction settings etc to get it to print well. It also requires a lot more infill to become what you may want for rigidity. I use 50% in most of my parts.
My customers find it superior in terms of durability over time (some have had their parts for over a year).
TO each his own I guess.