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  1. ABS will last longer, has a higher melting point...

    ABS will last longer, has a higher melting point and is easier to sand and shape post print.

    There are plenty of free or paid for packages. I use Simply3D, which is quite expensive, but well...
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    +1 to what Autowiz said. The only weak point...

    +1 to what Autowiz said.

    The only weak point with the stock extruders is the filament feeder, which benefits from being fitted with a spring loaded idler. Easy and cheap to do.
  3. I've no direct experience, but the reviews...

    I've no direct experience, but the reviews suggest it is fine as a printer, but the scanner is poor.

    I think it also limits you to using the branded filament, so you probably need to factor in the...
  4. This has been asked in many ways, many times... ...

    This has been asked in many ways, many times...

    To scan in detail, you need a very high resolution scanner, which won't be cheap. There are photographic methods, but the results tend not to be...
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    Ahh, OK, I used this design...

    Ahh, OK, I used this design http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:616895
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    Ooze shield?

    Ooze shield?
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    Sorry, what part do you mean? Can you post a...

    Sorry, what part do you mean?

    Can you post a picture of it?
  8. Sounds like you have ruled out the slicer then....

    Sounds like you have ruled out the slicer then. Does it look correct in preview mode?

    Can you monitor the temps as it prints? I do wonder if there is a failing heater cable that's bending at a...
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    I've done more than 500 hours on the standard...

    I've done more than 500 hours on the standard setup, including ABS PLA and Ninjaflex, so I don't think you need to replace the whole thing.

    Regarding the thermocouples, if they look like this...
  10. What printer are you using? Is it possible...

    What printer are you using?

    Is it possible that the filament is not being pulled evenly into the extruder, maybe the tube is bending too far or something similar?

    Could even be the heater...
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    So long as you have the polarity correct, then...

    So long as you have the polarity correct, then yes I agree, you should see a voltage when at the correct height. Are you using the resistor method to connect to the Z stop and have you connected it...
  12. Hints and tips to cure faults and keep prints consistent

    Hi All.
    There are quite a few threads on here regarding upgrading your CTC printer, but not so many about curing faults and compensating for inherent weaknesses in the design. Here's my ideas, but...
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    Steve, was your printer working correctly to...

    Steve, was your printer working correctly to start off with and has now developed this fault?

    If it developed it, it is probably a failing stepper motor cable - usually the one that goes to the...
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    No, he is talking about one of these:...

    No, he is talking about one of these:...
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    Hmm, how much thicker? Mine are about 1mm - or 1...

    Hmm, how much thicker?
    Mine are about 1mm - or 1 washer thicker. The only important bit is to ensure that the feeder hole lines up with the hot end tube.

    Might be worth a little tweak and a play...
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    Reading your other post, I don't think this is...

    Reading your other post, I don't think this is anything to do with temperature, but poor filament drive. I have posted a solution I know worked on my CTC in your other thread.
  17. I would say you have a failing stepper motor...

    I would say you have a failing stepper motor cable that is intermittently losing one of the cores.

    I had the very same problem on my CTC. A new cable solved it right away.
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    Easy way to check basic accuracy is to check the...

    Easy way to check basic accuracy is to check the ambient temp and then compare it to the temp readings on the CTC.

    I found them to be very accurate for the thermocouple on the hotend. Not sure...
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    I found these:...

    I found these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Printer-Filament-Feeder-Extruder-Feed-Upgrade-Fit-Nema-17-Motor-RepRap-/191449385041?var=&hash=item2c9345c851:m:mBX35tGarlfvZl0hAxmaP-w

    Will solve your...
  20. Insulated K-type thermocouples for extruders - a few available in the UK

    If you have a CTC or similar printer, you will find that these need an insulated thermocouple for the extruder - should the original fail.

    The cheapo ones from China are not insulated and do not...
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    Yes, it sounds like the front of your bed is...

    Yes, it sounds like the front of your bed is slightly too close to the extruder. Try re-running the leveling routine and see if things improve.
  22. Not sure how you are orientating the part, but it...

    Not sure how you are orientating the part, but it looks pretty easy to print. once sliced in S3D
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    The whole assembly can be taken apart quite...

    The whole assembly can be taken apart quite easily.

    Remove the allen keys holding the fan in place, remove the cable connector from the top of the stepper motor and gently pull the motor from the...
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    Sounds like the machine offsets are incorrect....

    Sounds like the machine offsets are incorrect. These are my settings when viewed through Replicator G

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    Machines going bezerk can sometimes be down to a failing stepper motor cable. These...
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    The idea with the line is to purge and prime the...

    The idea with the line is to purge and prime the print head.

    If after this command, the print is starting in the wrong place, it sounds like a the following on code to set the print head to the...
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