To get around this you have a couple of options.:
1 - more infill may help
2 - get the bed temp up
3 - get the ambient temperature up. (heated chamber)
Type: Posts; User: Hårball
To get around this you have a couple of options.:
1 - more infill may help
2 - get the bed temp up
3 - get the ambient temperature up. (heated chamber)
Let him get a printer if he really wants it, the worst that can happen is that he burns his fingers on the hot end.
Generally parents are way to overprotective nowadays..
The reason for this is mostly simplicity, and as before mentioned, a stepper motor is circa the same price as the belt , two pulleys and one idler would cost, also you would need a seamless belt...
Did you solve this?
on my machine with preloaded firmware the accelleration was set to 500 mm/s which caused some ugly corners like yours, i set my
DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION to...
I bougt a roll of PET tape from ebay just to try it out, and god damn how well the abs sticks to it, almost too well, i am now printing a 180x180 mm print without any signs of lift in the corners,...
You mean that the weight of the part squishes the bottom layers?
Yes, it was jast a quick'n dirty design to get rid of the loose hanging switches i got, i may do a prettier one sometime.
i have seen the spool holder you hang at the frame, i am however a bit...
The solution to this is simple, turn up the heat on your bed, i had similar problems in the past, but then tried to print at 120c, it worked like a charm, the plastic keeps softer then, and does not...
616263
Here's my i3, made a new lcd faceplate to get some swiches on there, currently i have one switch to power on the printer, and one to switch on/off the hotend fan.
I love my makerfarm i3 too, Colin does a fantastic job on both the kit and the support, he answered my questions very quickly,
Great bang for the buck.