Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[rcleav]

Good to know rcleav. I guess I dont understand rafts as much as supports. For supports, anytime I see something with overhang I assume it needs some supports. No big deal on left vs right. When I get home, I'll make PLA on the right (primary) and ABS on the left.

I used rafts at first and then tried without and it all worked only with cleaner bottom surfaces. Haven't gone back.
That's exactly what I do either different material or color in the extruders.

[g.gregory8]

@sygyzy Yes it would have been trying to print the raft with the right extruder. You have to change the 'Support Material Extruder' to 1 for left extruder (if you hold mouse over box it gives you an explanation).

Rafts and supports won't show up on the main view but if you click preview it will slice and show you a preview of exactly what it is going to print, including every line and layer. It also shows in red (left extruder) and white (right extruder). This is very helpful to see exactly what is going to be printed and a must when doing more difficult prints with lots of support.

As rcleav mentioned you don't normally need rafts for most prints. On my old DIY printer I never used rafts. But as it was the default for MakerBot I left it on. Also as I haven't got my glass plate installed yet it helps with slightly out of level beds.

[sygyzy]

Thanks for your tips guys. Now for a bed leveling question. I noticed the Flashforge Creator's leveling program is a lot more interactive and interesting than ours. It actually moves the bed to different locations. I just want to make sure I am doing it right on the QIDI.

With the machine on, I activate the leveling program which moves the bed up and the nozzle to the start position (I forgot where this is or why this particular area is the start). Anyway, with the head in the start position, use a piece of paper to check distance. Now, do I want noticeable resistance or have the paper rub the nozzle and the bed but really not give any hesitation when moving through them?

Then, with the machine STILL on, I am supposed to use my hands to move the head to different points and recheck level with the wingnuts? Which positions specifically? All four corners? What about the center of each side (NSEW)?

Also, since it's called Bed Leveling, is there any use in use a bubble level and making it "level"? Or does that not matter?

[Syd_Khaos]

Using a bubble level will only help if your machine is also perfectly level. Even then its a bit of an overkill.
When I level I start with nozzle over front 2 mounting points, then the rear mounting point. Once all 3 of these show good I will double check the center point and a couple random edge points.
You want a tiny bit if resistance, not much. A folded bit of standard paper will do, but I'd strongly suggest getting a feeler gauge with a .4mm slip. They are fairly cheap and much more accurate then paper will ever be.

Honestly I don't use the leveling program, I just tell it to home all axis and then go from there manually.

[rcleav]

Actually Sailfish is what makes you have to move the extruder carriage around by hand. What Flashforge is using is an older procedure and what my older Qidi did before the Sailfish upgrade. Evidently it has been decided by those that write Sailfish that the manual way is better. I heat the build plate up then go into the leveling operation.
I start in the front center adjusting the two front adjustments so the paper barely touches the nozzle tips. I then move to the center rear and adjust that one the same way. While doing this you can check that both nozzles are the same. I then goto left center, right center and finally center. Hopefully by then everything is level. I'm sure there are other ways to do it but as long as the plate is level when done it doesn't matter.

[sygyzy]

Thanks guys. I just ordered a set of metric feeler gauges. Just curious - What is the purpose of the command to bring all axis home? IIRC it just raises the bed then moves the print head to the back right corner. In what situation is this useful?

[sygyzy]

I switched my PLA roll to the right and printed a part and it worked after about 4 failures. Anyway, now I put some ABS on the left side and setup the Makerbot Desktop software to print with JUST the left side (including the rafts and supports). The annoying part is that it still heats up both extruders which causes some PLA to come out of the right during printing and the motion of the head going back and forth drags this PLA nobbind messes up the first few layers of the print. It's so annoying that they don't make it easy for you to use the left extruder. It's like they want you to use the right for everything.

[mtnride]

If you're willing to edit the g-code, using the left extruder only is pretty easy in Slic3r. Just got the printer today. 3rd print is already looking pretty good (PLA).

Homing the axes is to reset the zero position of the stepper motors.

IMG_4658.jpgIMG_4659.jpgIMG_4660.jpg

[Syd_Khaos]

After hearing all this I'm glad I spent the little extra on S3D. Its near mindless to set what extruder is used for what material.

I have been reading things from others printing on glass plates. Most saying single can of cleaner and single can of aquanet lasts month or so. I'm a week in and through half a can of both.
How often do yall clean your glass?
I have been scraping, rubbing with alcho, and reapplying the hairspray after every print. Am I going way overboard?
Also, what lube yall using for the rails? I would typically use graphite powder for something like this, but I'm guessing that would not be good for 3d printer.

[rcleav]

I have been reading things from others printing on glass plates. Most saying single can of cleaner and single can of aquanet lasts month or so. I'm a week in and through half a can of both.
How often do yall clean your glass?
I have been scraping, rubbing with alcho, and reapplying the hairspray after every print. Am I going way overboard?
Also, what lube yall using for the rails? I would typically use graphite powder for something like this, but I'm guessing that would not be good for 3d printer.

It seems a coat last for several prints with maybe a quick shot over the area that the last print was on.
If the surface of the glass starts to get a little rough or you have adhesion problems clean the glass and start over.
A can a month sounds about right.

People seem to like Superlube used very lightly.