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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfkansas View Post
    On one product I make I have bottom solids set to 6 because the bottom is flat and 1.2mm I don't want it to do 2 layers then try do do some infill, then solid layers again. For other products I am usually at 2 or 3 for solid bottom layers, maybe 4 if I am doing my infill at 4 angles.

    Dense support just affects supports, it doesn't have anything to do with infill on the actual object.
    Yeah I know, but I meant how you can set it so it print's out a nice flat layer at the top of the support, right before it starts printing on the support. To give it a nice bottom layer of your print that is going on the support. I was hoping for a way to do that with infill, as well. (Say 10% infill, but switch to 75% infill 1 or 2 layers before it starting printing the first bottom layer.)

  2. #52
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    Just set the solid top layers to 3-4. It will smooth out as it builds up layers. Or if you want set up 2 processes, increase the infill for the last 6 layers to like 75%. Then it will print 3 75% layers then 3 solid top layers.

  3. #53
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    haha yeah bass, isnt that the same as just bumping your top layers up 1 or 2 more than what your currently have them set to?

  4. #54
    wow im new to 3d printing like a week but didnt like rep g so i bought simplify last night .. holy cow its almost like point and shoot i couldnot get over hangs to work in rep g . right outta the box simplify had my over hangs fixed with supports. 7 prints to date and its working on 8 atm with no hicupps. Acetone misting works awsome for a clean finish.cant wait for dual extrusion.....

  5. #55
    I bought it yesterday. The slicing is so much faster than anything else I used.

    Do have one issue. I'm sure there is a checkbox to keep the bed temperature at set point, but I can't find it. In the FFF settings on the Temperature tab, it has a per layer temp setpoint. The default has layer 1 and 110. Does it only use that setpoint for the first layer? I'm printing abs by the way.

  6. #56
    It will set the temp to 110 starting with layer 1 and hold it until a new rule tells it to change or if there is no other rules, it will hold that temp until the print is done. With S3D, you can change the bed temp with different layers. So lets say you want to start out with a hotter bed temp of 115. But after layer 3 you want to bump down the temp to 110. To do this you would have two settings. First you will have a setting that says, "at layer 1, temp will be set to 115". The second setting will be "at layer 3, temp will be changed to 110".

    Basically, when it says "layer" That just says when that temp. setting will start. It does not mean that the temp. is only for that layer.

  7. #57
    Technician 34Ford's Avatar
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    What would be the cause of spider webs when the head stops extruding and moves to another location?
    They even show in the preview.

  8. #58
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    S3d just shows travel moves if you have that checked to show. One thing you can try is turn on coasting, just use the default value. This tells the extruder to stop pushing plastic a little sooner. The hot end builds up pressure and it doesn't stop extruding at the exact moment the stepper stops moving filament. You could also have the filament too hot, that can string since the filament doesn't harden fast enough.

  9. #59
    Technician 34Ford's Avatar
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    I have always run my pla at 220 with replicatorG and never had a problem. I will try the coasting. I see it is default at .20mm.

  10. #60
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    Ya, 220 might be high for pla. Try it at 200 and see if it flows ok with no extruder clicking. Ya the default coast is .2mm. In the preview you will see these as little dips in the outer surface.

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