convert i3v to build openbuild

[adamfilip]

Has anyone converted a i3v to be using fully openbuild extrusions / brackets.. removing the wood pieces

[MiniMadRyan]

Its an intriguing thought, and one I've considered for a bit, but I think basically at that point, you're effectively designing your own printer. Openbuilds part store seems to have everything we would need, but I think the end result would look nothing like our i3v...

[TechMasterJoe]

I'm building one lol
300mm X 1500mm Y 380mm Z full Gantry static beds dual use mini CNC and 3d printer enclosed side open top using 5X 12" hot beds each with it's own power supply lol
no I'm not using Belts switching to 1620 ball screw for x and y 1204 for Z

[Cameron]

I can't wait to see how this one progresses.

[PyramidDave]

Has anyone looked at changing the wooden build plate to aluminum? I saw where someone on openbuilds.com referenced using 6061 T6 Aluminum Build Plate .190" Thick available from https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/s...1aluminumsheet for a different project. They sell these sheets in increments of 1/16" up to 4' width with no min. order. For my 10" Prusa i3v it would only be $12.21 for a 10 3/8" square sheet. Drilling the bolt hole patterns would be the challenge for me. Using this design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:619347 for Y Carriage belt holder for Prusa i3, looks like you could replace the 4 square holes with 2 round holes. That would make it 8 holes to drill. Are there any other problems or short comings in doing this?

[Cameron]

I like this idea. I also wonder if there are any down sides?

[TopJimmyCooks]

If you want to see a version of this all extrusion frame concept look at the mendel max 2. the main differences are that the x axis frame is just the extrusions themselves with a top piece and aluminum corner plates for rigidity. They (and you, if you do this) established rigidity in the y direction by triangulating back from the top to the base with another piece of extrusion.

The main advantage of Colin's MakerFarm frame is that the wood composite gets you a lot of rigidity with a very light and cheap material. the triangulation back to the base makes it more solid than earlier Prusa variants. Also it's nice to be able to mount whatever you want (raspberry, relay board, different power supplies) wherever you want on the wood with out having to bracket it back to extrusions or make chips by drilling into metal.

IMO the steel or aluminum main frame plates cost more and are less flexible, which is why they're not as popular anymore, especially in the US.

[clough42]

I like this idea. I also wonder if there are any down sides?

I think mostly cost. The wood is cheap and good enough.

The only worry I've had with the wood build plate is that it flexes as it heats up. I put some insulation between the plate and the heat bed, and also mounted the PCB heat bed rigidly with 10mm threaded nylon standoffs and screws from both sides. This firms things up considerably, and I haven't had any trouble. Once ABL gets its level, it seems to stay put.

I have one printer without the insulation at the moment, and I'm having a little trouble. I use start GCODE to prime the nozzle and then wipe it off on the front edge of the glass, and I think the bed may be moving a little after the level as the heat from the bed soaks into the wood. That's just speculation at the moment.