Close



Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Student
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    25
    Add roybfr on Thingiverse

    Anyone upgraded their i3 to an i3v?

    I have an original 8" i3 (non Vslot) and have been considering picking up the kit to turn it into an i3v. Seeing if anyone else has done this or owns both styles (even if different sizes). I understand the general improvements but wanting to just get some feed back if the v style showed improved print quality (not just at higher speeds).

    I think part of my hesitation is that I would also like to move to a Hex from my J-head, plus also had my eye in the 8x12" upgrade. All that plus the i3 - i3v is ~400 and for that I could just about buy a 10" with the Hex and have a whole printer.

    Anyway just looking for feed back on those that have used the old version and the new, especially on how the vslot has effected print quality, if at all.

  2. #2
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    498
    If I had a i3.. I would consider converting it manually to a completely use openbuild V extrusions..

  3. #3
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Highlands Ranch, Colorado USA
    Posts
    1,437
    Add printbus on Thingiverse
    Hopefully he will chime in, but I believe clough42 is one that upgraded his i3 to an i3v, and I seem to remember hearing him say he'd do it again. AbuMaia has both an i3 and and i3v; maybe he'll jump in with some input.

    Note: I'm not trying to speak for them - I just know how frustrating it can be to post a question and then have to sit and wait for any kind of response.

    EDIT: Ah. I stand corrected on what AbuMaia has. I misunderstood another thread.
    Last edited by printbus; 01-04-2015 at 11:35 AM.

  4. #4
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Eastern Colorado
    Posts
    536
    I don't have both an i3 and i3v, I upgraded my 8 inch i3 to i3v. While I don't know if it affected print quality, it sure did make my printer quieter. Also, since I like to have rubber feet on my printer to further dampen noise (it sits on an old phonograph cabinet, hollow = amplifier), having the aluminum extrusions made the Y axis stiffer. The smooth and threaded rods would bend if I had feet on just the front and back panels on the i3. The extrusions don't bend as easily, so that did improve print quality affected by a curved Y axis.

    I'd definitely do the upgrade again. I can't see a downside to upgrading to the v-slot rails.

  5. #5
    Student
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    25
    Add roybfr on Thingiverse
    Thanks for the feedback.

    AbuMaia I see you have a E3D. Did you start with the jhead on your i3 and if so how do you like the E3D?

  6. #6
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Eastern Colorado
    Posts
    536
    Yup, I started with the JHead, and got the E3D when I got the i3v upgrade. I've not had any problems with the e3d at all. It heats up faster than the JHead, and there's no need of kapton tape to hold in the thermistor. I'm hoping the Hexagons are just as good, as I'm planning on switching to to the Hexagon to use the itty bitty dual extruder.

  7. #7
    i have i3 and don't want to upgrade it to i3v.
    there is no sense in this upgrade, as it is not cheap, but the quality of the print will not be much better, u can get slightly better quality with low speed (30-50mm) only. U cant solve design flaws of PRUSA i3.

    Also, I think about new printer delta or hbot, that can improve quality (by removing moves of heavy BED With printed model and heavy extruder)

  8. #8
    Student
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    25
    Add roybfr on Thingiverse
    AbuMaia

    One other question. Did you ever have issues with bed slop on the i3? I would think the single hole idlers running against the V slot rails on th i3v would be more solid (less potential slop) then the 3 LU bearings being held by 2 bolts each via wood covers. This is one of the areas I have to adjust the most over the past year.

  9. #9
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Eastern Colorado
    Posts
    536
    Not that I noticed. The only part of the Y axis I've had to adjust is where the belts attach to the bed. I've had that come loose and mess up some prints.

  10. #10
    Student
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    25
    Add roybfr on Thingiverse
    I have had the same thing, in fact that happened this past month.

    After some tinkering today I realized that some of it was the nuts for the Y threaded rods coming lose over time. Tightened those up and as well as the bolts for the LU, slop is gone. Time for a bit of loctite and need to do a better job of preventative maintenance

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •