Close



Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 29
  1. #1
    Technician
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    61

    Post Problems with print quality

    Im having the following problems with my printed objects:
    bottom.jpg
    The bottom layer on all my prints are not filled in all the way.

    IMG_3210.jpg
    The top layer is even worse than the bottom layer.

    Im printing ABS at 250 with the heated bed at 110. So far ive been adjusting the Z endstop height but that hasn't shown a difference. Could this be a bed leveling issue?
    Also I calibrated my printer using the method shown in ZennmasterM's youtube videos.
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    My guess it that you need to calibrate your esteps and measure your filament.

    I also have a question that falls into a similar category.

    ABS warping... Do most people actually manage to print it flat or is there just an acceptable level of warp at some point?

    In an enclosure trying abs glue, glue stick, and hairspray... Things are always warping... Usually to varying degrees... But good grief... I printed clough42s modified x carraige plate and it is moderately warped now im on to trying to print the fam shroud section on aytempt 4... Im hoping at this point i can just finish it so that i can get it installed and the air from the fan redirected... I think that is whats causing it because all of the pieces warp on the back side of the print which is where the air hits thw piece of wood and is deflected downwards.

  3. #3
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Montreal, Quebec
    Posts
    576
    You can print flat ABS part, a brim should help and prevent those lifting corners. I dont run active cooling without putting a brim on PLA or ABS. The cheap filaments I used is pretty much guarentee to warp.

  4. #4
    Technician
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    61
    I re-calibrated my esteps and its spot on now. My prints are still turning out bad though. I have been experimenting with different extrusion multipliers in Slic3r but none have made much of a difference. I've tried 0.9 - 1.2

    EDIT: Here is an image of what im getting for a first layer
    duddd.jpg
    Last edited by Schnupp; 12-29-2014 at 11:23 PM.

  5. #5
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Orange, CA
    Posts
    78
    can you post hotend specs nozzle size and screen shots of slic3r settings
    the bottom layer looks like first layer width is set to high slic3r default is 200% i use 105%

  6. #6
    Technician
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    61
    Im using the hexagon hot end with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament.
    Here are some Slic3r pics. Let me know if I missed anything important.
    slic1.jpg
    slic3.jpg
    slic4.jpg
    sic5.jpg

    slic2.jpg
    Sorry for the tiny images. Not sure why that happened :/

  7. #7
    Technician
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    61
    Here are some more pics:
    slic6.jpg
    slic7.jpg

  8. #8
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Highlands Ranch, Colorado USA
    Posts
    1,437
    Add printbus on Thingiverse
    I wouldn't mind seeing the settings on the Slic3r filament/cooling tab as well, since settings there can affect what your true print speeds are. I'd back off the retraction speed to 10 or 15 mm/sec. I personally think the bridge speed of 150 mm/sec is high, but there are many who leave it at that. These settings aren't likely, however, to make a difference in what you're seeing.

    There might still be an issue in how far away the nozzle is from the print surface. How are you adjusting that? If you are adjusting to the thickness of a piece of paper, try adjusting it so the paper is more snug and try another print.

    To me, the pictures suggest something mechanical could be going on. Looking at the perimeters on the bottom view provided in the last picture, the extrusion width varies at the lower left and the upper right sides. This, along with the waviness in the diagonal extrusions suggests to me that something in the X or Y axis might not be moving smoothly. With the nozzle cool and raised off the bed, try gripping the aluminum block and manipulating it by hand. You shouldn't feel any play in it. The Y-bed also has to have no play in it. It could be that one of the belts is loose, or that one or more of the eccentric spacers on the printer aren't adjusted properly, leaving something to shift around as directions change.

    I'd also make sure the large gear on the extruder doesn't rub against the bolts for the two wheels at the top of the X-carriage. Rubbing there has led to some unusual extrusion patterns as the wheel catches and slips, catches and slips, etc.

    All of these are at least easy things to check and rule out.

  9. #9
    Technician
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    61
    Thanks for the detailed comments Printbus
    Here are the pics you asked for:
    filament.PNG I have played around with the extrusion multiplier but it did not make a noticeable difference.

    cooling.jpgMy fan is wired directly to my power supplie's 12V so its constantly cooling my hexagon hot end.

    Im starting to think the problem is mechanical because my Y bed belt seemed pretty loose. Its adjusted and fixed now. Also when the hot end is fully heated im about 2 paper thicknesses above the glass. Probably too far right?

  10. #10
    Super Moderator JohnA136's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    548
    Just reading through this post and I was going to suggest you check belt tension. You look like you are still too high on first layer and possible your not extruding enough plastic, perhaps the filament is not as large as you have it set for in your slicing software. All minor things that you can resolve easily. Keep at it and you will have great prints soon.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •