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  1. #11
    Engineer
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
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    441
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    hips - is polysterene. Mostly recommended for supports or really weak parts.
    I've never seen anyone recommend it for actual prints.
    Pet seems to have good reports - I think I've got some samples around, but no labels :-)

    Advanced pla is the way to go.

    Polymakr plus, max and flex are awesome filaments.
    Mind you, I find all the pla I've used is Stronger and more giving than abs. ie: I can jam a really tight connecting part together in pla that will break at the same tolearance in abs.
    The material chemists have really made huge leaps with pla in the last couple years.

    Flexible filament wise the polymakr flexible pla Prints EXACTLY like standard pla. But bends. It's not tpe, so isn't super elastic. But it is idiot proof and flexible. It's also cheaper than the tpe based filament.

    I will say stay well away from taulman nylon 618 - I've managed to print a few small things: teatowel hanging clips and tabe cloth clips but it warps like a bastard and you can't stop it stringing (even after 12 hours in a dehydrator).
    I've got some nylon bridge I haven't used yet - hoping that'll let me print some larger items.

    Most flexible filaments print on a flashforge without any issues. The only thing I've done is wedge the tensioner leaver open for ninjaflex. Flexible pla doesn't need that, and works best without the wedge.

    I'm pretty much converted to cold bed filaments. As geoff said, faster less hassle prints. Plus they all stick really well to blue tape so no messing about with bed coverings.

    Bronzefill is great - but wait till the brass fill is available. that polishes up like gold and looks a lot more like metal than the bronzefill.

    For soluble support get pva filament. Dissolves in water, which is both cheaper and more user friendly than limonene :-)
    Thanks for all the info. I have not ordered anything as of yet, my PC will not boot and I have been monkeying around with that for the past few day's. I will look into the advanced PLA, I was just going to order normal PLA. The main reason's I have not used PLA yet is because I like to acetone vapor thing's a lot, I have a lot of kapton tape left, and I hear it sag's in the summer heat, or in car's, etc. Does advanced still have the sagging issues?

    I don't think I will order the HIPS right now, considering it will cost a lot for the liquid over time I was thinking. Maybe later on. I will look into the brassfill, I like the metal look that bronzefill gave after polishing

  2. #12
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,818
    Just bear in mind on the metallic powder filaments (bronzefill, copperfill, brassfill, etc) that the material is weaker than standard pla.
    While it looks like metal when polished, the metal powder is giving no real structural strength to the material. It's just bits of metal embedded in plastic.
    The stuff is a LOT weaker than standard abs or pla.

    As far as all the negative things I've heard about pla goes. So far I haven't encountered a single one of them.
    hell it doesn't even get soft in hot sink water - like it's supposed to.

    Which given that I have a roll of white pla that won't even extrude at anything less than 210c - doesn't actually surprise me.

    The supposed lower limit on most pla I've got is 185 - all the stuff I've used is more like abs in that it doesn't soften till you get close to it's actual melting point.

    So if you're car temp regularly hits 100c - then you might have problems. But then I suspect you'll have similiar problems with any kind of plastic.

    Like I said the material chemists have been working overtime on material characteristics. And I don't honestly think that any of the pla on sale now has the weaknesses of pla a couple of years ago. Could be wrong, but I can only go on what I've printed and how it behaves.

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