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  1. #11
    Engineer-in-Training ssayer's Avatar
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    Oct 2014
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    Lakeville, Michigan
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    369
    On my Powerspec 3D Pro (Flashforge Creator Pro clone), for PLA I go with this on my glass (using an Elmer's glue stick on the glass):

    extruder temp - 200 (works for Microcenter's house brand and for Dremel's brand of filaments)
    bed temp - 40

    Everything else depends on what I'm printing.
    Last edited by ssayer; 11-30-2014 at 11:06 AM.

  2. #12
    On the levelling issue....

    if if your adjustment nuts are all the way and still do not touch.....it should be possible to be adjusted in Z offsets. I have no experience in this, but physically that is the only solution other then shimming.

    As for rafting...I have had rafts get stuck in certain places, completely bonded. I only use them when I absolutely have to, a tall thin parts.

  3. #13
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Nov 2013
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    NSW, Australia
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    Add Geoff on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by Stigern View Post
    CRC Minus 50 is your friend when getting off prints.
    I'm a fan of the Fonzi method .. ie "Whack!!"
    Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com

  4. #14
    Student
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    EU
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    26
    I assume you got one of the Creators.
    Beds on these tend to distort with temperature, so if you preheat to 120 it's good to recalibrate.

    I would also advise to remove one of the springs from the print bed to get a 3 point leveling (left-back is my fav), with 4 points you'll always get tension on the bed. If the bed is warped by default, you can try to use the 4 screws to compensate the warping, though.

    Dreamer comes with glass bed and 3 point bed calib by default.

  5. #15
    Student
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Aberystwyth
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    It comes with a 3 point levelling system already

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