Support structures hard to remove (FF Dreamer)

[domu]

Just got my FF Dreamer and tried to print few tests from Thingverse.
The problem is that support structures comes out thick, strong, and
very difficult to remove.

Is there any way to make those support lighter and/or more sparse ?
Or can I someway define where I want support to build, as now it just
adds support all around the model, which is not only waste of material
but also makes it way more difficult to remove.

I am using FlashPrint. Printing using PLA 50/190 C.

Any helpful answers will be appreciated.

[DrUsual]

Disclaimer: I'm very new to this. One solution that I've read but haven't tried yet is to print in PLA, but use ABS in the second extruder to do the supports. I'm going to give that a try sometime this week; I just started getting a lot more successful ABS prints now that I'm using a glass bed. From what I understand, you can use acetone to help dissolve away the ABS.

The other possibility that I've read is to disable supports and build your own in the model. This came up when I was looking at how to make an enclosed hinge -- the advice was to make a minimal connection between the pin and loop in the hinge, allowing the "free" floating pin once the hinge is moved once and that connection is broken.

I've tried reducing the Infill setting in Flashprint, but I don't see much of a difference in the supporting material...

[Bobbler]

Just got my FF Dreamer and tried to print few tests from Thingverse.
The problem is that support structures comes out thick, strong, and
very difficult to remove.

Is there any way to make those support lighter and/or more sparse ?
Or can I someway define where I want support to build, as now it just
adds support all around the model, which is not only waste of material
but also makes it way more difficult to remove.

I am using FlashPrint. Printing using PLA 50/190 C.

Any helpful answers will be appreciated.

Ok, that is not down to the printer, but the slicer. Different software has differing support methods.
Simplify 3D for example they are quite easy to remove compared to others I have found - but obviously that's a pay for software but I personally like it and it gives me good results - basically I offset the cost versus the number of failed prints I would create trialing other methods

You can also as said create your own and turn it off in the slicer.
For example load your model in Meshmixer and you can create some pretty clever minimal support structures:
featuredImageMM.jpg

[DrUsual]

You can also as said create your own and turn it off in the slicer.
For example load your model in Meshmixer and you can create some pretty clever minimal support structures:

Really cool example. Flashprint defaults to a 45 degree overhand for creating supports -- should that generally be left alone, or do you find you can do steeper overhangs without supports?

[Geoff]

Disclaimer: I'm very new to this. One solution that I've read but haven't tried yet is to print in PLA, but use ABS in the second extruder to do the supports. I'm going to give that a try sometime this week; I just started getting a lot more successful ABS prints now that I'm using a glass bed. From what I understand, you can use acetone to help dissolve away the ABS.

The other possibility that I've read is to disable supports and build your own in the model. This came up when I was looking at how to make an enclosed hinge -- the advice was to make a minimal connection between the pin and loop in the hinge, allowing the "free" floating pin once the hinge is moved once and that connection is broken.

I've tried reducing the Infill setting in Flashprint, but I don't see much of a difference in the supporting material...

Just make sure your ABS is as low printing temp as possible, or close to the PLA as you can. If you print on one side at say 180c and the other at 230c, you will see some serious issues (like plastic being heated up again after cooling down, which can cause those crappy lifting corners on the sharp edges, top layer... but if you can get it around 210c for the PLA and 225c for the ABS, it's a good mix.

As for supports, yep, as said above this is your program, not your printer. Switch to something else and give it a go.

[mikenmel08]

The support in FlashPrint is HORRIBLE.......I have tried several times to use it with NO luck.....Was the main reason i went to Simplify 3D.....NO more problems

[DrUsual]

Just make sure your ABS is as low printing temp as possible, or close to the PLA as you can. If you print on one side at say 180c and the other at 230c, you will see some serious issues (like plastic being heated up again after cooling down, which can cause those crappy lifting corners on the sharp edges, top layer... but if you can get it around 210c for the PLA and 225c for the ABS, it's a good mix.

As for supports, yep, as said above this is your program, not your printer. Switch to something else and give it a go.

This is good to know, thanks. I've been doing all my ABS at 220, which seems to be working great with a 110 glass platform. I was doing PLA at 205, but based on other stuff I've been reading in this forum it seems I might have been going too hot with that. But may have to to mix these, from what you're saying.

I just downloaded ReplicatorG, too. Last week I'd been reading that other programs would be better than Flashprint and tried Repetier, but in the setup it was asking for technical specs about the Dreamer that I didn't have and was having trouble finding. I'm going to try getting ReplicatorG set up with it tonight, or maybe try Simplify3D.

Thanks!

[jdg56]

If you decide to try replicatorg, look down a few threads at my YAST (Yet Another Support Thread). I just posted some tweaks to the slicer settings that will generate much lighter supports that are easier to remove. I haven't fixed the welded-on rafts in replicatorg, but I'm much happier with the supports after applying the few changes I documented in that thread.

Cheers,

John

[awan2008]

I agree! I use Simplify3D as well. Support and slicing time are much better.
Mikenme, may I know the profile that you use to print with Flashforge Dreamer? I have some failed prints and I was wondering if the settings were off. I print with PLA. Thanks.

The support in FlashPrint is HORRIBLE.......I have tried several times to use it with NO luck.....Was the main reason i went to Simplify 3D.....NO more problems

[lucidpsykosis]

On my Dreamer, I noticed (in FlashPrint) that if you use Skeinforge instead if Slic3r, and print it laterally along the 'X' axis, your supports should come right off. I was fighting the supports coming off parts using Slic3r too. But as with most people here, I just moved to Simplify3D because of the lack of...well...FlashPrint just blows (IMHO).