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Thread: Newbie

  1. #11
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    the motherboard has plenty 5 volt connectors you could attach an led to.
    Also has 24 volt connectors for running an extra cooling fan.
    Just no 12 volt.

    Or you could do what I've done. Run a usb cable off your computer to an led flexible shaft poundland light and bullclip it to the case :-)
    http://www.poundland.co.uk/usb-powered-led-light
    like that. Mine's a slightly different design.
    But it means I can move the light to any position I choose.
    Really helps if you're checking to make sure the first layer is sticking.



    Well no - but it does transfer from the smooth guide rods to the bearings - which is what i said :-)
    Not sure I've greased the screw shaft lol

    ALso I've never managed to get abs to stick to anything without a raft. So appearance wise that boats sailed.
    Haven't tried yet with s3d.

    maybe if I get some more time, but given the limited time I've got with the printer at the moment I'm not wasting time on abs when pla does exactly what i want with out any problems whatsoever.
    I mean none. No warping, no cracking, bridges better, parts are harder and not that much less flexible.

    I've got some pet to try - but again, just bugger all time at the moment.
    Lol wait a few months, see how your PLA parts look compared to your ABS parts

    Applying Grease to your threaded rod should be up in your top 5 list of maintenance things. Why would you put grease on the rods and bearings? use freakin bearing oil.
    Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com

  2. #12
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    is this the oil and grease i sould look at :

    oil http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251616434690?_trksid=p20 60778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    grease : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3214176531...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

    if so ill order them right away.

  3. #13
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    They will do fine, and you could even use sewing machine oil on the bearings, I use the Tamiya stuff because I run alot of R/C cars so it's something I always have handy, we're only talking a few drops here and there so it will last some time. The Tamiya ones have a needle like tip, so it's a bit easier to apply. That grease is pretty awesome too, it has Teflon in it, it's really resistant to heat (not that the Z shaft spins all that fast) but more is better than less yeah ?
    Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com

  4. #14
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    cool ill get some ordered then,

    i now have another problem, while cleaning the feed motor, i managed to round out the aluminium bar that hold the extruder head in, so now it just falls out. any idea where i can get a spare ????

    http://kolobus.co.uk/collections/spare-parts

    this looks like it has the right one ??? could someone confirm this

  5. #15
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    looks like the right bit.

    Well there's a page of bits - presumably you mean this bit ?
    wanhao-MK9-drive-gear_grande.jpg

    Interesting website too :-)

  6. #16
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    that was the bit i was cleaning, lots of abs in the grooves

    http://kolobus.co.uk/products/extruder-metal-bar-mount

    this is the part i need if this is the right one

  7. #17
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    That is the same block as the flashforge, so yeah will work fine - def much cheaper than getting one buy buying a new extruder set (did that stupidly once.. never again...)
    Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com

  8. #18
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    well the new alu bar arrived yesterday, and as though was missing the holes for the grub nuts that hold the nozzles in place, so after a few emails (kolobus customer service is very good and helpful), i decided to keep it and try and get it drilled and threeded myself.

    1 phone call later to a friend who works in metal work fabrication and the job was set for today. while waiting and not being able to print jack i upgraded the firmware to 7.7 sailfish

    so today after work i took the old alu and new alu bar to my mate who as expected knew exactly the right size, 20 mins later (i think he got a call mid job) and my new alu bar was gtg (good to go), while there i asked if it was possible to use steel or something stronger than alu, was told it can be fabricated in any metal, so there a future idea, how often do these parts die????

    so im now home and after much fustration, the holes are drilled on the reverse, meaning the nozzle adjustment now requires a strip down, but they are a better fit as there is more metal to screw into.

    just finished a test block, and lefty is working fine (love the little noise to tell you its finished).

    now on the righty. Prints perfect as well.

    now to test dual extrusion (something i have not been able to try due to unlevel head)

    geoff wtf is the new end of build screen trying to tell me, before i just got time. now it displays

    time : 0h 12m (i know what that is)
    filament : 0.6982m (??????)
    (cannot print copy) (?????)
    -> main menu

    help
    Last edited by Ghosty; 11-05-2014 at 01:05 PM.

  9. #19
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    ok so now with this new fw my x axis is way off, like it dont even print on the platform off

  10. #20
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghosty View Post
    ok so now with this new fw my x axis is way off, like it dont even print on the platform off
    Where are you seeing this info?

    "time : 0h 12m (i know what that is)
    filament : 0.6982m (??????)
    (cannot print copy) (?????)
    -> main menu "


    Hex3D - 3D Printing and Design http://www.hex3d.com

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