Can You turn off the Build Table Heat?

[KenR60]

I normally manually modify the GCode but it doesn't take much to find the Bed is up to 30C and then if I change the GCode for the next Print to even 20C it never cools down from 30c. I'm Printing PLA

[Mjolinor]

With the heads on it will never cool down anyway. In a closed printer with the table heater off and both heads on it will eventually stabalise at around 55 degrees C.

[KenR60]

Bugger so Printing PLA will sometimes fail? After about 10 Different Prints my Last one came off the Build Table and the Back section was like 6mm Thinner then the Front so I'm guessing that's cause the Table was too warm? So does that mean you have to wait an hour or two between Printing to get the Table Cooler?

[Dargonfly]

I've found that having a build platform anywhere between 20 and 60 degrees can work.

For getting PLA to stick to the build platform:
- level build plate (important)
- use blue tape, kapton, or glue stick (different type of water based glues can also work)

I recommend using a glue stick. But make sure your bed is perfectly level, not too close to the extruder and not too far away.
Good luck, and report back your finding, printing PLA is easy once you get the hang of it.

[curious aardvark]

the only issue I've had with pla is getting it off the tape :-)

And I now don't heat the printbed and it will come off without tearing the tape (most of the time)

In simplify3d load the standard flashforge profile (either dual or left or right - depending on what you're doing). Then edit the profile and in the temperature settings screen set the build bed to use t3 (it's set to t0 by default).
As it won't use t3 without you modifying the gcode the build plate is not heated at all - job done.
Don't try removing the build plate from the temperature section - that doesn't work - buildplate will still be hetaed. Just change it to t3 and the job's a good 'un :-)

In makerware just untick the heat buildplate box.

I'm thinking a chilled build plate would be best for pla :-)
But mine tends to run between 18-25. The pla still sticks like fox crap to a hairy dog - but it will come off with a little persuasion (unlike the aforementioned fox crap). Heat the bed up and it's a new tape job every time.

[Mjolinor]

The pla still sticks like fox crap to a hairy dog - but it will come off with a little persuasion (unlike the aforementioned fox crap). Heat the bed up and it's a new tape job every time.

Being such an obvious expert on the finer points of dog owning how does one stop the aforementioned from occurring in the first place. I think the removal of said pollutant would not be too hard if you could actually survive being close enough to said canine to wipe it off, sadly I can't, it makes me vomit.

What the hell is an animal doing making such smelly poo to begin with anyway.

[curious aardvark]

lol foxes eat a high protein diet, mixed with acidic fruits - humans eat a similiar diet and their poop smells just as bad. (fortunately Our current dog doesn't roll in either the former or latter and doesn't eat the latter - and that's a huge deal in an area prone to traveller scum)

The best thing is to wash the dog in teatree oil dog shampoo. You can also get teatree oil sprays as well, that might cut the smell down enough for you to get close enough to weild the warm water and shampoo Mjolinor :-)

teatree oil is pretty much the only thign that works effectively on fox crap :-)