Glass Bed, What and Where would you get one?

[soofle616]

Since my last post in this thread I've gone back to the glass bed and have been printing with no issues. It was definitely a nozzle gap issue. I had originally set it bigger on purpose for reasons that don't warrant going into because it didn't help. Going back to a single sheet of paper to gauge with my results have been good. Haven't tried printing directly on the glass since I had already applied some kapton but I may try it again once I get to a point where the tape needs to be replaced. I have to say that my prints really aren't any better or worse than before as far as I can tell. The one benefit I've seen is the ability to remove the plate and stick it in the freezer to cool things off and aid in part removal. I did have one multi-piece print that I ran on it where the mating surfaces were both printed on the glass. The resulting flatness meant that the glue seam is all but invisible. The only sign that the two parts were ever not one is the sudden change in surface finish (one part ends as a large flange while the other is a much smaller cylinder). Not complaining mind you, I've seen at least one small benefit and no negatives to go along with it so I'm gonna stick with glass. Still toying with the idea of removing the aluminum plate though just to gain back the lost build height, as small as it may be.

[DrUsual]

[QUOTE=soofle616;36849]The one benefit I've seen is the ability to remove the plate and stick it in the freezer to cool things off and aid in part removal. QUOTE]

I've had far more success with my prints sticking to the glass than I did with the Kapton tape for my ABS. That might have something to do with being new to this, though, and just haven't mastered the Kapton tape method. I actually set my glass right on top of the tape, too; I didn't take it down to the metal plate.

Something else interesting that happened inadvertently -- I'd done one print last night at 110/220, printer started to cool. I removed the print and then told Flashprint to do another. It reheated the extruder, but it didn't send the target for the platform heat. So, when it started printing it was only 70/220. I decided to let it go and see what happened -- it actually worked great, and the second print detached from the bed much more quickly after completion.

[soofle616]

I've seen people printing abs at all sorts of bed temps. 110 isn't a magic number it's just a good number that seems to work well for most prints. Like everything else it can and occasionally should be tweaked.

[plasticformer]

Saw on a You Tube video something about a "green" block a guy added after installing his glass plate. Does anyone know what this is, or why he installed it? I got glass plate with my FF Creator, and tried to install it. When the bed went to leveling operation the glass was too tall and hit the left extruder nozzle.

How do you level the bed after installing the glass.

Sorry. 1 week newbie here.

Thanks,

Plasticformer

[Stigern]

There a several different shims that work :

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:328505
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:239446

I'm guessing one of these was that green block he installed.

[DrUsual]

Saw on a You Tube video something about a "green" block a guy added after installing his glass plate. Does anyone know what this is, or why he installed it? I got glass plate with my FF Creator, and tried to install it. When the bed went to leveling operation the glass was too tall and hit the left extruder nozzle.

How do you level the bed after installing the glass.

Sorry. 1 week newbie here.

Thanks,

Plasticformer

Hi Plastic,

I was paranoid about the extruder hitting the glass when it was time to level, so I just twisted the wing nuts to lower the bed manually by about 5 cm. So, when I hit the "Level" button and the platform rose into place, it was obviously nowhere near the extruder, but no big deal, just had to approach it as if it was the first leveling out of the box.

[SpragClutch]

FlashforgeUSA sells glass for 19 dollars. http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/b...ate-glass.html

[Ghosty]

just ordered a 3mm thick float glass with a bevelled edge, hoping it will be ok heat wise, but then at £2.85 not really a bank breaker, its from a local company that are 5mins down the road from me.

[griffog]

First post, hi all. I was just about to ask if anyone in the UK had a source for borosillicate, sitall or any other thermal glass in sizes suitable for a Creator Pro here in the UK?

Was going to order direct from Flashforge USA but $80 for shipping!!

[ngendo20]

you can order borosilicate glass from Mcmaster.com (McMaster-carr) in the 6"x" 1/8th thick. that's what I use. got the shim file from Thingiverse and machined it out aluminum on a cnc since the plastic one seemed to warp