Beginner, a few questions… looking at Bambu labs

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Hey guys. I’m new to 3D printers as a whole. I’ve never seen one run, I’ve seen them in person though! My understanding is I’ll need to learn CAD to make my own custom prints. Is CAD difficult to learn on your own? I have some designs available for download that I’d like to print as well.
I’m currently looking at the Bambu labs x1 carbon as I think it’ll be something I can learn on and hopefully not have to upgrade. Is there “better” for the money (about $1,500)?
Most of what I think I’ll end up making will be hard use stuff. Tool accessories such as power tool holders, power tool holding trays, etc. maybe a small part here and there. I’m unsure what else, that’s just off the top of my head. PETG is what I’d be looking at for that stuff, correct? Is carbon fiber worth using? Do prints stay solid with compressive loads on them (say a box with a removable top). Any other info I should know about?

[OG56]

I would not say CAD is easy to learn but it's not insurmountable. Depending on what package you pick to learn, there are a ton of tutorials on Youtube. Self learning is definitely doable.

I focus on more useless toys so use art focused 3d modeling software (not CAD) and self taught.

I've only used two 3d printers so I'll let other more knowledgeable folks talk to them.

[airscapes]

if you are looking to make mechanical objects then yes you need to lean a cad software that can export the file in STL format which is what the Slicing software (also something to lean) read and turns into gcode which is what the printer reads.
If wanting to do mechanical there are some free options.. I choose Onshape.com which is free with the caveat that anything you design can be searched and used by any other Onshape user. This is a fully functional system nothing is turned off for the non paying users. It is also cloud based so system requirements are small compared to CAD software that are installed on your local system. Can not comment on the printer, I a MakerGrear M2 and never anything else

[RobH2]

I've been a Product Designer/3d Designer for over 20-years. Learning to build quality and accurate models has a pretty good learning curve but anyone who decides to make it a goal can learn it. It just takes time and dedication like everything else. Fortunately these days there are all kinds of 3d software that are user friendly.


If you want to become more "engineering-like" you may eventually move to CAD, like IronCAD or SolidWorks. Or you may like some of the features you get with 3ds Max or Maya, which also do fantastic modeling. What to learn on is a deep rabbit hole, but don't be afraid to do it. Maybe get something free or inexpensive to see if you like it and then move up. The principles are the same, the buttons are in just different places. I'm 100% self-taught and have made a living making 3d stuff for nearly 3 decades.


As to a printer, I wanted somehting to do concept models for my clients. About 10-years ago I built a MakerFarm 10" printer and modified it heavily. It was a really good printer and did everything I needed at that time. It started to fail/die about 2 years ago and I quit using it, but missed the ability to print. So last week I spent about 30 hours researching. I ended up with a Bambu P1S. It is mind-blowingly good. I can't say enough good things about it. So if you are just getting started, save a few bucks, get the P1S and AMS and give it a go. Put the saved $500 into software. I don't feel the X1 does that much more besides having a heated chamber for filament drying a few other nicities. But, either way, the Bambu, X1 or P1S would be a fantastic starting printer for you.


Combine that with an entry level CAD program and you'll be in heaven pretty darn soon.

Edit: In case it helps you and others, my plan is to test the Bambu 0.2mm hot end against the 0.4mm version. I'm posting a few photos of some really tiny parts. Even as it was a great printer, I could never even remotely print anything useful of these small parts with my Makerfarm. That's not Makerfarm's fault, it just wasn't high enough resoultion. I've posted an image made with the 0.4mm hotend while I wait for the 0.2mm hotend to arrive.


In my search for this new printer, I saw a lot of nice photos of test prints, phone cases, little boxes, figit thingys, etc. I never saw any real empirical and microcopic tests. Have a look at these photos. They are on the very edge of what the printer can do and you might be inclined to think they look a little rough, but, keep in mind, some of the holes and teeth are smaller than the inside of an "A" on a US money note. I'm blown away by how good they look being as small as they are.


That tells me, anything larger than a dime is going to print fantastically. I can't wait to test the 0.2mm hotend. I've only had this P1S for 3-days and I'm just blown away after every print I've made so far and all at 'default' settings. Don't get me wrong, I know there are a number of excellent Prusa and other printers that can print this level, but few of them for $900 considering all the other features the Bambu has. I guess I'm still trying to convince myself that I made the right decision and I think with this test print I can stop doubting myself...lol...


Tiny Parts_Bambu P1S_0.4 Hotend_.08 layer height_s.jpg

[jaine20]

That tells me, anything larger than a dime is going to print fantastically. I can't wait to test the 0.2mm hotend. I've only had this P1S for 3-days and I'm just blown away after every print I've made so far and all at 'default' settings. Don't get me wrong, I know there are a number of excellent Prusa and other printers that can print this level, but few of them for $900 considering all the other features the Bambu has. I guess I'm still trying to convince myself that I made the right decision and I think with this test print I can stop doubting myself...lol...

[RobH2]

I went through the same thing. I've had my P1S for a month now and it's still blowing my mind. I printed some M4 threaded hex head bolts and the threads worked well. And that was with the .06 hotend. I tried printing an M3 bolt and the threads were kind of mushy but I bet if I were to print an M3 with the .02 head, they would work as well. So, think smaller than a dime for some things. I've completely stopped wondering if I made the right decision. The only thing that would shatter that is if it doesn't hold up to the test of time and hours. But I keep seeing posts of people talking of 1000s of hours without any problems. It will take me a long time to get to 1000s of hours as I'm not manufacturing, I'm just a guy who prints stuff for a client or myself on occasion. I couldn't be more thrilled with this printer.