Need Help From Printing Gods!

[kbuilds]

I am, like probably many before, frasturated. At this point I can't get a single print done due to curling and sometimes bad bed adhesion. Most common suggestion for bed adhesion is to use an adhesive like regular glue stick. I didn't want to mess with the surface of the bed since I believe adhesion is enough as long as nozzle doesn't hit the part where it curls. I could not find any solution to this, not for PLA, not for ABS, not for anything. I believe my bed leveling is as good as it gets since I observe pretty consistent first layer and brim. They always look evenly layed out and no apparent defects. It was suggested that more cooling is needed to avoid curling, so I wanted to print a new cooling duct for my sprite pro but even that failed. I could not even get to half of a 1 hour print... I am using a Creality CR-10 Smart Pro and I have about 6 months of experince however, I did get perfect prints with PLA and ABS before. So perfect infact that parts were good enough for prototyping for an electric race car. I know the printer can get very good prints done and do so consistently however I'm getting something wrong or something else. Are there any suggestions for curling? I need some help desperately.Thank you in advance.

[Bikeracer2020]

You realy need to say what temperatures you are using for each filament.

Is the printer enclosed because ABS is usually recommended to eliminate any souce of draughts.

[airscapes]

Not enough info, so will list thing that will cause failures.. only guess what you mean buy curling.. assuming the corners peel up?

So uneven bed surface, not that the corners are not level but the entire surface is not flat. so you have high and low spots
Incorrect starting height i.e. nozzle to close or too far from the surface during the first layer
First layer put down too fast
printing too hot
Bed temp uneven (cold spots near the edges)
Layer thickness too thin for the amount of surface deviation (bed not smooth) try printing with max layer height for the nozzle size
Fan when no fan is needed (ABS) or not in an enclosure bed to cold
Bad filament
probably some other things I can't think of now

[kbuilds]

You realy need to say what temperatures you are using for each filament.Is the printer enclosed because ABS is usually recommended to eliminate any souce of draughts.

hi! Excuse my inexperience in this. I used the recommended 240C and 220C for ABS but results were always the same. I turned off part cooling fan which helped with bed adhesion but made no difference for the curling. The printer is not enclosed but for the previous parts I made, there were no problems, came out just fine. The problem is that the previous parts I made had no sharp corners, mostly circular patterns which is easier to print I guess. For PLA, I use 205-210 range as suggested by the manufacturer and the cooling fan is on after first layers as default setting from Prusa Slicer.

[kbuilds]

Not enough info, so will list thing that will cause failures.. only guess what you mean buy curling.. assuming the corners peel up?So uneven bed surface, not that the corners are not level but the entire surface is not flat. so you have high and low spots Incorrect starting height i.e. nozzle to close or too far from the surface during the first layerFirst layer put down too fastprinting too hotBed temp uneven (cold spots near the edges)Layer thickness too thin for the amount of surface deviation (bed not smooth) try printing with max layer height for the nozzle sizeFan when no fan is needed (ABS) or not in an enclosure bed to coldBad filamentprobably some other things I can't think of now

Hi! I did the bed leveling as well as I could do. I read online that creality beds are known to be crooked hence the auto-bed leveling feature which I use before every single print. I also checked and adjusted all the rails in case something was off. I set them twice with a caliper. They are accurate within 0.03 milimeters. However, the right forward corner of the bed has always been crooked no matter the adjustment but I mostly print smaller parts now which are in dead center of the bed. Even if the bed was unlevel beyond compensation, the auto-bed leveling would give me error which it did before. I use no fan while printing ABS, made no difference for later layers but does help with bed adhesion, so no fan indeed. Filament is local but well known and has been tested by local builders which is why I purchased it. (Brand: Porima) I'll look into layer thickness. I still think it has to do with cooling for PLA. The stock cooling ducts is just not good enough in my opinion. Printed layer doesn't cool down fast enough? Just a thought. PLA: I use 200-210C range. 60-65 Bed tempABS: I use 220-245C range. 80-100C Bed temp (I tried these temp ranges and results are all the same)

[Bikeracer2020]

Have you cleaned the bed with a wipe over with some IPA before each print?

It could be that you need a new bed sheet, the reason I suggest this is that I tend to print ASA and never really had bed adhesion problems, I frequently cleaned the bed sheet with IPA. However I recently decided to use some PLA I had and it would just not stick to the PEI sheet at all.

Replaced the PEI sheet for a new one and had no probems.

I do give the bed a wipe with IPA before every print.

I thing that perhaps the constant use of ASA might have left a film of sorts on the bed and this prevented the PLA sticking. Next time I use ASA I'll be trying the old bed sheet again.

If ABS acts like ASA and warps it will help if the printer is enclosed and you make no efort to open it until everything has cooled back to ambient.

Perhaps try a glue stick to see if it helps.

[kbuilds]

Will do the glue stick tonight and see what happens. It will stick for sure but curling is still the main problem. Nozzle ends up hitting the part, in this case it's better for the part to dislocate otherwise I could break something in the hotend.