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Thread: Print Lifting

  1. #1

    Print Lifting

    hi guys im having real problems atm with my print lifting i have put new tape on hoping that would solve the problem but no luck. i have a heated bed and its heated to 110 as it came out of the shop.
    is this too hot is that the problem? is there something else i can put down to help it stick? i have heard of pva glue put down but not sure if that was for a heated bed. oh im printing in abs.
    thanks for your help in advance rich

  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    bed's either not completely flat or it's not calibrated properly.
    Also try it at 100 - rather than 110.

    The thing about abs is that while it sticks better to a hot bed - having the bottom layers hotter also increases the temperature difference further up the model which is what cause the lower layers to shrink and pull the model off the bed.

    Since I've added a completely flat printbed to mine I've eliminated lift and warp.

    Also use blue painters tape - I use duck brand. You'll need a flexible and very thin scraper to get the models off !

    What printer do you have ?

  3. #3
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Glue stick people, glue stick!

    And a hammer... in case it works too well.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainObvious View Post
    Glue stick people, glue stick!

    And a hammer... in case it works too well.
    And that ok with a heated bed??

  5. #5
    Either you're running too hot, try setting down from 110 to 100. Also make sure the bed is CLEAN, with aceton as you can buy online or in ur hardware shop.
    Last edited by hedning; 12-17-2014 at 07:46 AM.

  6. #6
    Hey rich.
    kapton tape works good because its heat resistant and gives the print a little adhesive. The only issue is that is is very thin and tends to shred easily if you put too much fore on pulling the print out. You can find it in most art supply stores or electronic stores that sell soldering equipment, pcb's and small mirco controllers.

    But what I found even better than kapton is Pept tape. super strong, super easy removal, heat resistant. These things aren't sold in many stores i've ever found, but you can order them online from places like ebay, alibaba, and amazon. like this link : http://shenglongpan.en.alibaba.com/p...petp_tape.html.

    Either way, you're not going to regret getting the tape as opposed to pouring on liquid abs resin. Toxic, messy and just needs too much work.

  7. #7
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich9517 View Post
    hi guys im having real problems atm with my print lifting i have put new tape on hoping that would solve the problem but no luck. i have a heated bed and its heated to 110 as it came out of the shop.
    is this too hot is that the problem? is there something else i can put down to help it stick? i have heard of pva glue put down but not sure if that was for a heated bed. oh im printing in abs.
    thanks for your help in advance rich
    A kids glue stick works well on blue tape and ABS plastic, PLA doesn't need the glue so much really. The glue will make your job stick so well, it will most likely take the tape with it .

    Hairspray is only good on glass and kapton, it simply absorbs into blue tape and doesnt do anything.

    110 is ok for ABS, I print in that all the time, sometimes I lower it,sometimes I dont. Never be afraid to go super low on your heatbed, you wont break anything try going down to 102 or 104.. if it doesnt stick try 106.. you will find the magic number for that particular plastic, you will find often they are all different and need a little tweaking. There is also a few degrees between what your sensor says and the actual temp, so often what I did was simply put 2 layers of blue tape, OR a layer of kapton with blue tape over the top, this gave it better insulation and the temp seemed to regulate better. Just level your bed to compensate for that extra layer of tape. Also the first layer is super important man, make sure that thing goes down well and in tight lines. Big gaps in the lines in your first layer means less adhesion to the bed, that's why Rafted prints often always work because they have such a good surface area on the build platform.

  8. #8
    Staff Engineer old man emu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff View Post
    There is also a few degrees between what your sensor says and the actual temp,
    The thermistor for my print bed is attached to the underside of the bed. I wonder how much difference there is in temperature between the underside of the heated pad where the thermistor is located and the surface of the glass print plate. Perhaps a solution to lifting layers would be to fix the thermistor to the top of the print bed glass, so that the reported temperature is more realistic.

    Old Man Emu

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by old man emu View Post
    The thermistor for my print bed is attached to the underside of the bed. I wonder how much difference there is in temperature between the underside of the heated pad where the thermistor is located and the surface of the glass print plate. Perhaps a solution to lifting layers would be to fix the thermistor to the top of the print bed glass, so that the reported temperature is more realistic.

    Old Man Emu

    Or is there some easy way to calibrate the reading of the thermister to the actual temperature on the top of the print surface?

    Dee
    Last edited by Dee Smith; 09-15-2014 at 11:26 AM.

  10. #10
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Just get an infrared thermometer from ebay.

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