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  1. #31
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    also being the glutton for punishment, is anyone else running this on linux?

  2. #32
    Technologist dacb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dacb View Post
    I can provide diffs the next time I'm by the machine.
    See attached. This does not have my changes for software limits for x and y. I can provide those separately. This is against the github repo from Sat. 9/6/14.

    marlin.diff.txt

    Quote Originally Posted by usarmyaircav View Post
    also being the glutton for punishment, is anyone else running this on linux?
    I'm using Octopi which is a set of packages for OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi running ARM Linux. I also tried Repetier-Server on the Pi but that was rather unstable and crashed half the prints. I have also used pronterface on the Pi, a Mac, and a 64bit intel Linux box with no problems.

    If you have a Pi, I highly recommend Octopi. You can get an SD card image based on raspbian with a fully configured web interface and webcam streamer ready to go. Then, you can upgrade your octopi version by doing a git pull and restarting, as described here. I love being able to star, view, tune, and cancel the print and do manual moves from an iPad or at work, etc.

  3. #33
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    I will look into getting a raspberry Pi, however right now I have a laptop runing Unbuntu that I am going to be using.

  4. #34
    Technologist dacb's Avatar
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    If you plan to try Repetier-Host, you will probably need 14.04 or at least 13.04 in order to run the mono bits required. Everything else will work out of the box. If you plan on leaving the laptop attached to the printer you could try Octoprint also.

  5. #35
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    Quick question, is it absolutely necessary to run a cooler on the hexagon at all times? I've noticed in my prints that a print cooler could help considerably, and was wondering if one could simply relocate the fan from the hot end down slightly, or if i would just be better off adding an additional fan to cool the print too.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniMadRyan View Post
    Quick question, is it absolutely necessary to run a cooler on the hexagon at all times? I've noticed in my prints that a print cooler could help considerably, and was wondering if one could simply relocate the fan from the hot end down slightly, or if i would just be better off adding an additional fan to cool the print too.
    I could be wrong so someone please correct me if I am, but since the hexagon is an all metal hotend like the E3dv(name your version), I am pretty sure it is required to run a fan on it, and it is recommended that you use an additional fan for a print cooler.

    Todd

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by usarmyaircav View Post
    I could be wrong so someone please correct me if I am, but since the hexagon is an all metal hotend like the E3dv(name your version), I am pretty sure it is required to run a fan on it, and it is recommended that you use an additional fan for a print cooler.

    Todd
    Yep...if you dont have a fan on the hexagon, heat will rise up into the aluminum spacer that the extruder block sits on...then the extruder block may soften and warp from the heat.

  8. #38
    Engineer-in-Training gmay3's Avatar
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    Yes you absolutely need a hotend cooling fan running on the hexagon at all times. I can speak from directly from a past failure. My whole extruder base was melted, luckily I had a spare!

  9. #39
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniMadRyan View Post
    Quick question, is it absolutely necessary to run a cooler on the hexagon at all times? I've noticed in my prints that a print cooler could help considerably, and was wondering if one could simply relocate the fan from the hot end down slightly, or if i would just be better off adding an additional fan to cool the print too.
    I've also had temperature problems with the hex hot end after I tried to cut back on airflow. The likelihood of issues will go up as you try to extrude at higher temps on long prints. Relocating the fan lower could actually help the hot end, since the upper part of the fan seems to be pretty much blocked by the x-carriage and hot end mounting plate. On the downside, lowering that airflow might lead to a longer warm up time if you're running a heated bed. IMO, I think you'd also find lowering the hot end fan to provide limited benefit as a print cooler. There's not a lot of airflow there, and it's not very focused.

    I'd go the dedicated print cooler route. For one thing, RAMPS and slicers are ready to deal with controlling a dedicated print fan. You can keep it off as the bed is heating and through initial layers so you get good bed adhesion. The slicer can even adjust the fan speed upwards as layers get smaller. If you can hold off a week or so, I've implemented a different approach for a print cooler on the i3v that is giving me great results. I'll reveal it in my build thread after I get more run time with it.

  10. #40
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Thanks Printbus, I really appreciate everyone's input. I'm thinking that since, like you mentioned, D9 is still available for a ramps controlled fan, that I will take an extra fan I have sitting around and wire it in. I finally have my Surface 3 back from warranty and set up again for CAD work, so maybe tonight I will tinker around and see if I can throw together something quickly for a mount. Maybe a rear mounted fan with a small duct, or something that can mount to the existing extruder base and incorporate both fan mounts....hmmm...

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