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  1. #21
    Technologist
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    Apr 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by phranch View Post
    It is clear I am among my betters and enjoying every minute! Martin, please forgive my questioning but here is an area of continuing confusion for me. When I go to the official Creality forum you cited, it opens with the item "Ender 3 Pro (V4 mainboard) Marlin201 - V0.0.5 (Default Firmware)" dated 19 Sep, 2020 being HIGH-LIGHTED, while just above it dated 20 Aug, 2020 is "Ender 3 Pro-4.2.7-TMC2225 Marlin 2.0.1-V1.0.1". Further, at the www. creality.com/download site is listed "Ender-3 Pro 4.2.7 mainboard firmware (32bit) .zip". Which one do you think I should use? In different places I have read that versions are often the same, or very similar, and that more than one may work. For some one floundering as I am, this constitutes fatal overload! Hope you can understand my situation. I am now checking the wiring and connections again and once I receive your further advice, I'll re-flash.
    That www. creality.com/download has a .zip file that includes all the firmware variants.Of those, I'd probably try Ender 3 Pro-4.2.7-TMC2225 Marlin 2.0.1-V1.0.1, unless your machine has a transfer board, or filament sensor, in which case try the version that includes support for that.

  2. #22
    Thank you for help! It was very useful for me.

  3. #23
    Student
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    Jun 2020
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    El Dorado Spgs, Mo
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    25
    OK Martin, update. I removed the 2-wire harness between the Z-stop switch and the 4.2.7 board, and checked continuity of both leads with a multi-meter, and both were good. I'm not sure how to check within the plug sockets themselves, so that remains as a potential problem. I re-downloaded the .Zip file from creality.com/download that you suggested. Unzipped, several options appeared, like for BL, transfer and filament boards, and I selected ORIGINAL FIRMWARE. Next, 3 options were available--(1) Ender-3 Pro 4.2.7 mainboard firmware (32 bit) (2) Ender-3 Pro Marlin2.0.1 V1.0.1 TMC2225 English (3) A file similar to #2 except in Chinese. I chose #2 (#1 was not a .bin file). Copied that file to a blank formatted 8 GB SD card. Put card into printer and turned it on. A blue screen appeared which shortly became the usual Creality logo, but with no other response other than an occasional blink and a high pitched whine. So my nightmare continues. If you were in the US, I'd presumptuously suggest using a remote control app like Team Viewer, just to get me out of the loop because I must somehow be the problem!

  4. #24
    Student
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    Jun 2020
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    El Dorado Spgs, Mo
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    OK Martin, update. I removed the 2-wire harness between the Z-stop switch and the 4.2.7 board, and checked continuity of both leads with a multi-meter, and both were good. I'm not sure how to check within the plug sockets themselves, so that remains as a potential problem. I re-downloaded the .Zip file from creality.com/download that you suggested. Unzipped, several options appeared, like for BL, transfer and filament boards, and I selected ORIGINAL FIRMWARE. Next, 3 options were available--(1) Ender-3 Pro 4.2.7 mainboard firmware (32 bit) (2) Ender-3 Pro Marlin2.0.1 V1.0.1 TMC2225 English (3) A file similar to #2 except in Chinese. I chose #2 (#1 was not a .bin file). Copied that file to a blank formatted 8 GB SD card. Put card into printer and turned it on. A blue screen appeared which shortly became the usual Creality logo, but with no other response other than an occasional blink and a high pitched whine. So my nightmare continues. If you were in the US, I'd presumptuously suggest using a remote control app like Team Viewer, just to get me out of the loop because I must somehow be the problem!

  5. #25
    Student
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    Jun 2020
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    El Dorado Spgs, Mo
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    When I view my post from a few moments ago, it is filled with a lot of garbage that I did not put there and am unable to remove!!!! Weird!
    Now, 45 seconds later, the junk is gone. Maybe I've already gone crazy!

  6. #26
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    130
    Euuugh. That's a tangled web. Technically, the 4.2.7 board is supposed to be a simple swap in, but I'm seeing an awful lot of posts where that hasn't worked, and firmware twiddling was required. This feels like a firmware issue, but it's going to be difficult to diagnose as there are so many potential Ender 3Pro variants out there.

    What happens if you chuck the original board back in. Does it still do the raise, stop, raise, behaviour? That might at least get you printing again.

    I assume that your E3D pro doesn't have a touch screen?Do you know if it has a transfer board installed or not? (see point 8, here - https://howchoo.com/ender3/install-b...ender-3-v2-pro). It shouldn't affect anything if there's no BL Touch, but any information is good.

    And yes, this forum software is bad.

  7. #27
    Student
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    Jun 2020
    Location
    El Dorado Spgs, Mo
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    Man, you sure do exhibit tenacity and perseverance! OK, I will put the V1.1.4 board board back in. Neither it nor my 4.2.7 board have touch screen, BL, filament or transfer capability built in. It seems that the V1.1.4 doesn't have a bootloader installed so firmware flashing must be done with Marlin, Octopi and a Raspberry Pi--right? I actually do have a Raspberry which was used when I had a computer tech come out back when to flash the V1.1.4--all that is beyond me!! (That was an interesting session because he knows NOTHING about 3D printing and I had to preassemble all the download sites, YouTube how-to vids and programs like Pronterface, Visual Studio, Octopi. Can you imagine ME trying to help him through all that???? He is a dear friend who indulges me greatly! I sense we'll have to do something similar again.) But I will put it back in and use the original SD card content that came with the board if necessary. More to follow later....and another big thank you for now.

  8. #28
    Student
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    Jun 2020
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    El Dorado Spgs, Mo
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    Man, you sure do exhibit tenacity and perseverance! OK, I will put the V1.1.4 board board back in. Neither it nor my 4.2.7 board have touch screen, BL, filament or transfer capability built in. It seems that the V1.1.4 doesn't have a bootloader installed so firmware flashing must be done with Marlin, Octopi and a Raspberry Pi--right? I actually do have a Raspberry which was used when I had a computer tech come out back when to flash the V1.1.4--all that is beyond me!! (That was an interesting session because he knows NOTHING about 3D printing and I had to preassemble all the download sites, YouTube how-to vids and programs like Pronterface, Visual Studio, Octopi. Can you imagine ME trying to help him through all that???? He is a dear friend who indulges me greatly! I sense we'll have to do something similar again.) But I will put it back in and use the original SD card content that came with the board if necessary. More to follow later....and another big thank you for now.

  9. #29
    Student
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    Jun 2020
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    El Dorado Spgs, Mo
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    Forgot to post my last reply until just now! So I re-installed the V1.1.4, loaded the original SD card files that came with the E3Pro, placed into the printer. Turned it on and auto home seemed ok. Noted the the display immediately showed 354 at the nozzle and 25 on the bed. Set my normal temps of 215 and 63 and in 2 or 3 seconds a message of 'HIGH TEMP, RESET' came up. Tried a couple more times with same results, so obviously something is amiss, although I couldn't detect any heat in the nozzle. Went ahead and leveled the bed COLD so I could check auto home and it appeared to be correct! I'm reassured by this tiny positive result but still have no idea why the 4.2.7 is askance or the anomaly in the nozzle circuit exists.

  10. #30
    Technologist
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    Apr 2021
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    130
    Ok, let's split this up into two problems. Board 1.1.4 'works', and may be useful to find hardware issues. Board 4.2.7. doesn't (yet), most likely due to incompatible firmware (thanks Creality).

    The high temp value suggests a short directly across the thermistor. Hopefully, that's all it is, and there isn't any board damage (e.g., https://support.th3dstudio.com/hc/gu...-or-lcd-blank/). To test, switch the bed and hotend thermistor at the board, and see if the high temp value changes to the bed.

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