Flashforge 3D Creator forum.

[jdub1981]

I dont know if you got this figured out yet but it the acceleration setting in the Sailfish firmware. The ReplicatorG version that ships with the Flashforge SD card is not fully compatible with the installed Sailfish firmware. You should download the newest RepG from thingiverse.

The stair step happens because of how fast the extruder changes directions. You may have noticed a heavy vibration almost like the printer is gonna break itself. The new RepG has the fix for you.

[jdub1981]

I received these 2 blue rectangular sheets with my printer. There are no clues as to what they are in the shipping docs or on the flashforge site. Apparently Flashforge does not even sell them in their shop. After a bit of googling ive found out they are a print bed material known as Polyetherimide. Supposedly they are fantastic and can be used for both pla and abs and require no extra prep for surface sticking.

My question is this, after putting this stuff on the bed it seems as if the normal printbed temps that ive been using for the last 4 months are no longer compatible. Does anyone have any experience with this material?

[warkmal]

I don't think so. Flashforge answered on the Google group and said they were polycarbonate. I really like the PEI though.

PEI is translucent yellowish.

[jdub1981]

I don't think so. Flashforge answered on the Google group and said they were polycarbonate. I really like the PEI though.

PEI is translucent yellowish.

http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-y1cmqh...0.1280.jpg?c=2
This is the sheet. I stuck the 3m labeled side to the hotbed and the blue side faces up. What is the proper setup for printing on this material?

[Abhishek]

I'm having a lot of trouble with taking off the rafts off of a Flashforge. I've been using PLA with 210 degrees as the extruder temperature and 40 degrees as the build plate temperature. I use Makerbot software to manage my printing and the rest of the settings are all standard with 0.20mm layer thickness, 2 shells and standard resolution. It works fine if I print without rafts, but on every print I add rafts, its impossible to separate the object from the raft. Could you suggest what changes I need to get rafts to work on my printer?

Moderator note: This post is VERY late to appear due to unexpected delays in obtaining moderator approval.

[anthonymelbert]

Hello everyone,
So my buddy just gave me his flashforge creator pro cause he bought a different one and he lost the sd card that came with it does anyone know where I can get the software that was installed on the sd card or does anyone have the files and can share them. Thanks

[warkmal]

The software that came with it is RepG. The latest version is on thingiverse. Search for the Sailfish thing. RepG 40r33 is in the thing files.

[anthonymelbert]

thanks for the info.

[warkmal]

ReplicatorG is kind of abandonware, but it has the onboard preferences for your printer. You may want to move on to a slicer that is getting recent improvements. The Cadillac is Simplify3D, but if you're willing to put in a little work you can get great results from a free slicer such as Makerbot Desktop, Slic3r or Cura. Best starting point for slic3r is on 3duniverse: http://www.3duniverse.org/2014/01/05...forge-creator/. It's a little behind the times, but nobody has made a better one that I know of.

[Amer11235]

Hi guys,

I need help with a reoccurring issue. A while back I noticed burn marks where the cable and the bed connect and it would sporadically stop working. I replaced the cable, and everything was fine for a while, but now the problem has come back. heatbed.jpg I've read that the power cable draws a lot of power and overheats the connection. Is that what's what's happening here? Also, the far left pin that connects to the burnt wire is loose. Does it need to be resoldered? Please advise how I can fix this issue once and for all Thanks!