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Thread: Help!

  1. #11
    Staff Engineer
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    The Tronxy beds are also notoriously not flat. They are a very thin aluminum that is large and flexes very easily and so it warps easily. Other good options are the Ultrabases from Creality or Anycubic or whoever has their name on the carbon silicone glass beds.The ultrabases are perfectly flat until they break which should come as a breathe of fresh air to any TronXY owner. And also we can get real good quality build surfaces right here: GeckoTek 3D Printer Build Surfaces Scientifically
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 12-28-2020 at 10:35 PM.

  2. #12
    Student jdvass's Avatar
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    One more vote for the ultrabase style build surfaces. Anycubic calls them ultrabase, I think Creality calls them carborundum glass or something like that. They are a glass plate that has a textured surface. When the surface is warm prints stick like glue. But once the build surface cools to room temp the print pops right off. I like them. Being glass they are nice and flat.

  3. #13
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    pei also works well and is dirt cheap for self adhesive sheets.

    BUT !
    befoere doing anything expensive you need to play with the slicer settings.
    You've actually got thr best start - a print surface things stick well too.
    So all you really need to do is to speed up the first layer print speed and adjust the z-axis offset, until you have settings where the print sticks, but also releases.

    Having a print surface things stick well to is a great place to start.

    So before spending a lot of money on a - probably - not needed upgrade, tune the slicer for the surface you have.
    A really sticky surface is actually an advantage as it means you can print your first layer pretty fast.

    And a combination of speed and nozzle gap will most likely sort the problem out.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom_nerd View Post
    I just got a 3d printer for Christmas and set it up as the instructions asked but when I went to remove the print it was incredibly hard. I eventually managed it after a few minutes of shouting. but when I did the first layer had remained stuck to the print bed. I have 2 questions:

    1. what did I do wrong for this to happen

    2. what can I do to get the first layer off the print bed.

    Link to picture of print bed: https://drive.google.com/file/d/10Lt...ew?usp=sharing



    thanks in advance,
    Tom. :-)

    Hi Tom, I bought an inexpensive printer over Xmas and set it up. What a steep learning curve, but, I am overcoming the hurdles. I had very much the same experience of effectively the model sticking to the heat platter. I pulled mine much the same after it stuck firmly and it ripped the liner off the platter. Bum I thought then I did it again after moving the platter upp so the patch was out of the way and it did the same but not so severe. The models that I loaded through the slicer software (Cura in this case) showed the Temperature of the Nozzle to be 240 and the bed at 70degrees. Having no platter to work on I cut a piece of picture frame glass of 3mm thickness you can get thinner, and used this on the Heat bed then I turned the model temp down to Max 200 and bed to 50 and it seemed to work very well. I'm still trying out temp combinations. happy to exchange experiences as am on a steep ;learning curve as I say and hence looking for advice. My machine is a CTC A13 3D printer and I've set the Cura software slicer up as Prusa Mendel I3. Working from SD card currently. You can always send me question direct to steven-gilbert@outlook.com

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    pei also works well and is dirt cheap for self adhesive sheets.

    BUT !
    befoere doing anything expensive you need to play with the slicer settings.
    You've actually got thr best start - a print surface things stick well too.
    So all you really need to do is to speed up the first layer print speed and adjust the z-axis offset, until you have settings where the print sticks, but also releases.

    Having a print surface things stick well to is a great place to start.

    So before spending a lot of money on a - probably - not needed upgrade, tune the slicer for the surface you have.
    A really sticky surface is actually an advantage as it means you can print your first layer pretty fast.

    And a combination of speed and nozzle gap will most likely sort the problem out.
    Hi As you can see from my entries to help I'm learning about this great new venture into 3D printing. Your comments on the first layer settings of Z-Axis, nozzle temp and layer thickness is something I'd like to learn more on how to try out the suggestions. I have as said placed glass on platter (its just picture frame glass not etched or ribbed but very smooth which makes for a very shiny smooth bottom but it is not that good for sticking when the Nozzle climbs high on model and pressure is put on the top making the bottom come away from the glass) I guess I could grain the glass up with some wet and dry sand paper but not sure if that will allow it cleaning of residue!

    Still this idea of setting the temp and stickyess on first layers how do you do that in the settings is that something that needs manual adjustment just as its starting and then turning it back to operational for the models> can you advise and any suggestions and where this etched glass platter can be obtained for a 235 x235mm platter would be much appreciated.

  6. #16

    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by SRG-3D View Post
    Hi As you can see from my entries to help I'm learning about this great new venture into 3D printing. Your comments on the first layer settings of Z-Axis, nozzle temp and layer thickness is something I'd like to learn more on how to try out the suggestions. I have as said placed glass on platter (its just picture frame glass not etched or ribbed but very smooth which makes for a very shiny smooth bottom but it is not that good for sticking when the Nozzle climbs high on model and pressure is put on the top making the bottom come away from the glass) I guess I could grain the glass up with some wet and dry sand paper but not sure if that will allow it cleaning of residue!

    Still this idea of setting the temp and stickyess on first layers how do you do that in the settings is that something that needs manual adjustment just as its starting and then turning it back to operational for the models> can you advise and any suggestions and where this etched glass platter can be obtained for a 235 x235mm platter would be much appreciated.

    Hi and thanks for the informed offer of advice.

    I have now tried the manual settings when the Nozzle and platter start to warm and that made some difference but not a great deal.

    So I then took your advice and took a greater look at the Slicer and what a difference it makes. Set the Brim and Raft and the temps, size and speeds and it started to produce lovely results. I also cut a picture frame glass of 3mm to 235x235 and set the nozzle head up across the platter with the Steppers disabled and it has made an improvement also.

    This little machine for £100 odd is splendid and am now making attachments for the frame using Tinkercad to hold the cables in a more tidy and unobtrusive way and will move on to more challenging models. Thanks for the help.

  7. #17
    Hi Tom, Did you see my message about the same issue I had with my platter burning out a section?

    I resulted in cutting a picture frame glass of 3mm thickness and put that on the platter, it works very very well. It also makes the platter flatter and easy to clean. I've ordered a spare traditional magnetic cover and will see how that works later.

    Also I've played around with the slicer settings and that has made a tremendous difference to the quality output. Let me know how your getting on.
    Regards
    Steven

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