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  1. #21
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    Sure, glad to try to help. Sorry about the funeral.

    Sure, whatever you use as a starting point, folded paper, metal gap set, business card, etc., it fine. Just know it's not "one size fits all." You have to evaluate that method used and tweak to perfection. I have a microscope and I look at the bottom layer with it once a print is finished. I look to see that the filament got smashed a bit and all the sides touch and are pushed against each other. If the sides just barely touch then you need more smash so that you get a tight layer. You don't need a microscope, a good hand lens or head lens will work too. I found these little 45x hand microscopes on Amazon for less than $3 ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). They are amazingly sharp and help if you don't have anything else. The come from China so it takes a few weeks.

    I've learned a lot about my printer and filament by examining a final print with something more powerful than normal eyes.

    Here are some microscope shots that help me diagnose and fix prints. The one on the left is what I call a perfect first layer:

    MicroscopeShots.jpg
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  2. #22
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    Well things look great! I still have a little fine tuning but everything is looking a lot better than when I started.

    Pictures are below. Any other hints/tips? The bottom layer looks great it is squished and creating nice adhesion for the next layer. I will probably attempt a bridge test next to work on the speed of printing gaps. Then maybe after all of that printing something for fun!

    Thank you for the link to the hand microscope! I know exactly what you mean, my major hobby is high powered rocketry. So I have a pair of really nice calipers and really accurate scales and rulers. This is why you can see each print I have is numbered so I know exactly what I did to make that print better than the previous. Feel free to check out my website: www.blackaero.com

    I am really grateful for the knowledge and help! All of you are really great! I do not know what will happen to this printer as it was given to help proto type and to create instructions and some help for people printing their first object. This is where all of you have been crucial. But I do know if the printer gets taken away I have had my eye on a Prusa i3.

    Most of my 3D printed creations will be involved in high power rocketry so thanks for listening!

    Anyone have any tips for anything?
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  3. #23
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    BlackAero is pretty interesting. I bet you like that show where rocketeers launch all kinds of crazy designs. It's a very interesting show.

    Your print looks great. I don't see how you could print it much better than that. The bridge looks great and the sagging seems to have abated. Nice job. Glad we were helpful. If you lose that printer the Prusa i3 is a great printer. I love my Makerfarm. It's stayed true and reliable for almost a year now. And it gets worked hard. I've had users here say that they don't trust a frame made of wood but I have to say that the wood Colin uses is stable and does not warp or deflect. I can't say enough good things about it and the print quality is as good as any that I see photos of on the web.

    Now try printing something hollow, just perimeter shells, and make a nose cone or something. Don't use support. You may need to print it on a raft or use a good skirt. What you need is light and strong for aerospace as you well know.

    Good luck with your flights in the Troposphere.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  4. #24
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    Well I printed a vase I found on thingiverse. I cut the height of the model to keep the print time under 4 hours.

    Everything looks great there is one little mistake on one of the bottom layers but nothing noticeable.
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  5. #25
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    That looks like a really clean print. I think you are in good shape. It doesn't look like you'll have much trouble printing the parts you need at this point.
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  6. #26
    Super Moderator Roxy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobH2 View Post
    That looks like a really clean print. I think you are in good shape. It doesn't look like you'll have much trouble printing the parts you need at this point.
    I think his print looks good but his desk is entirely too clean.

  7. #27
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobH2 View Post
    That looks like a really clean print. I think you are in good shape. It doesn't look like you'll have much trouble printing the parts you need at this point.
    I am trying another print right now, this one will be in clear PLA so I hope it goes well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Roxy View Post
    I think his print looks good but his desk is entirely too clean.
    It's a good thing you can only see about 10% of it! With all of my hobbies my desk is always a mess.

  8. #28
    Super Moderator RobH2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxy View Post
    I think his print looks good but his desk is entirely too clean.
    Well, I saw the same thing too but didn't want to say anything...lol... I dare not show you mine...
    Bambu P1S/AMS
    NVision4D http://nvision4d.com

  9. #29
    Engineer-in-Training
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    Well the print looks great its a Gyro if you cannot tell.
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    Last edited by BLKKROW; 07-28-2014 at 12:27 AM.

  10. #30
    Super Moderator Geoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roxy View Post
    I think his print looks good but his desk is entirely too clean.
    thanks, coffee spit on KB, I owe you one

    and BLKK your prints are looking good man, I think you are there!

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