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Thread: My First CoreXY

  1. #1
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    My First CoreXY

    Well I was hoping I was gonna slow down on the rate at which I have been bleeding out the monies on this hobby. But I guess that is just not in the cards. It has been pointed out to my ignorant self that the higher temp filaments in which I am wanting to print all want an enclosure to assist in maintaining an ambient temp and also a silicone bed that can handle the high extruder temps. Because I turned the bed sideways on my Big Red printer an enclosure for that would have to be absolutely huge and a separate structure built over the printer. For a coreXY I can just apply paneling to the sides of the cube. And so I am thinking about taking the mmu2s and maybe using it here and there on old blue(geeetech i3) then taking the 3 color mixing parts off of Printalicious and putting them on Big Red so that I can take the BondTech BMG-M extruder with Mosquito hotend and apply it to this: https://www.tronxyonline.com/Tronxy-...mm-p61067.html . Sounds like a lot of fun doesn't it? My current 3 color mixing printer, Printalicious, has a ugly wooden frame and my Creation Station would look awesome with Big Red on the left and the huge CoreXY on the right. Nothing but aluminum extrusion any way you look.
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 10-04-2020 at 12:39 AM.

  2. #2
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    I ordered mine off ebay because it was over $100 cheaper right here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tronxy-X5SA...UAAOSwhN9fFVNZ . And it can be had for the low 7's if we just don't get the PRO which is surprisingly close to what I paid for the Tevo Black Widow with BLTouch a few years ago. Guess I got some more 3d printer building to do. Like the kool-aid man said, OH YA!
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 10-04-2020 at 12:38 PM.

  3. #3
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Printalicious, has a ugly wooden frame
    Say: classic, even retro - ebviromentally friendly, easy to work with.
    But ugly ?
    Never !
    lol

    Really interested to see what you make of the corexy system.
    I'm still trying to get my head around how it works.
    If you move the head diagonally - just one belt moves. If you move it side to side both move in opposite directions - and if you move back and forwards both move in the same direction (or vicey versa - I#m not in the workshop, so can't check).

    What I'm waiting for is a corexy IDEX.
    Just watching the 4 belts moving would keep me entranced permamently.
    Can't see any reason it couldn't be done.

    If it doesn't come as direct drive - it's an easy conversion and the etra weight shouldn't make any difference at all .
    I just had to print a single bracket.

    As far as a different print surface goes - polycarbonate prints happily on 85c and up.

    Short of PEEK - not sure what you want to use that needs more than 120c (what most beds seem to go to now).
    okay - re-reads post - what are you trying to print, that goes high enough to melt pei ?

    A decent hi-temp hotend that could sustaion 300c would be nice and I might consider that at some point.

    But you'll have a blast :-)

    500x500x600 - that is a BIG beast.
    Also currious to see what you think of the odd looking 'linear' ? rails.

    Looking at the listing - claims to have a 3 year warranty.
    Are we believing this ? ;-)

    One description I love: 'building materials: aluminium and metal'
    So aluminium AND metal !
    Cor ;-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-05-2020 at 07:19 AM.

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    I understand the corexy belts. It is similar to your delta where multiple steppers move together to generate motion on one axis. On the delta it is a blend of all 3 but on corexy it is just x and y that blend. The color coded diagram of the two belts on top shows how this motion will work..

    I know those belts need to be tight. But even more important I know this printer just like the Tevo Black Widow is a problem child right out of the gate. The reviews I saw from early 2017 on the BW that called it dangerous and a fire hazard and other terrible names is what got me all excited about getting it. And why I never put it together the right way from new. And that is exactly what this is because that is what is exciting to me. These are the tronxy x5sa pro reviews that helped push me to it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiJg7f9ib4M&t= . And also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cosb_F8NRIM . Now these are people reviewing the machine exactly as it comes and have made absolutely no attempt at correcting anything at the time of these reviews. I will draw up and print out some new motor mounts and for the X gantry I will make some pieces to attach to each end and keep the gantry square. Until I get HIWIN rails and guides and a 1 piece gantry going. But I am aware of it's shortcomings and can't wait to tackle them. As I understand it the biggest problem I need to overcome is the top 3 piece assembly that make up the gantry and how it does not want to stay square. Here is a picture of it all together from their website..

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    And so until it arrives I can only watch this video a thousand or more times and plot, plan, and order better hardware and frame reinforcements accordingly so we are ready to build when it arrives. This video is the factory correct assembly from TronXY: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJWcAGB-UZg . It is so not how I will assemble mine.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    yeah the gantry setup with just extrusion is an issue.
    That's what I like about the sapphire.
    Base is a solid box of 2.25 mm steel and the top gantry plate is a single slab of 6mm aluminium with the rails bolted directly to it.
    It's the most rigid thing I've ever seen.

    You should be able to make a top plate - must have the cutting gear at work.
    And didn't you recenty invest in a plasma cutter ?

    And the belts actually don't need to be 'tight'. Because both motors are always pulling together often in opposite dierctions. There always seems to be tight areas and slack areas.

    I will tighten mine up slightly with the new connectors - but given I can knock out a smooth working 40mm iris box at 150mm/s with the direct drive setup - they are obviously not as loose as I think they are :-)

    lol you deliberately picked a printer you NEED to rebuild didn't you :-)

  7. #7
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    Oh ya. but also the largest build envelope i could find so the payoff will be worthwhile. 500x500x600. But this is getting the best of everything. and today all i can think about is your surprise that i used cheap electronics in my Multi Widow. You were and are right and my every thought right now is on the duet 3 6hc along with the 7" touchscreen to go with it. I might have to bite the bullet and learn the reprap 3 FW. Thank God I have you and Spegelius.

  8. #8
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    lol ah, was that the comment about removeable stepper drivers versus built on ?

    I mean it's not about cost. the skr 1.3 turbo board I bought was stupid cheap - but has removeable stepper drivers.
    And as really the main issue you're likely to get at any point - it's really the only thing to look out for.

    If you look around here - apart from a few boards where the hotbed circuits fry (mainly creality boards it seems) stepper drivers are pretty much the only thing you're likely to have trouble with.

    So by getting a board with replaceable chips - you're actually saving money in the long run, and also vastly simplifying the whole trouble shooting process.

    But when you look at what the skr boards cost and what they can do - there's no way I'd go near a duet.
    But then I'm unlikely to ever build something as complicated as you are :-)

    Yeah that build volume on the tronxy is pretty huge.

    I think if I ever need to get something that large it'll probably be a belt machine. That way I don't need a whole new room to keep it in :-)

    I actually quite fancy having ago at making a really small one 100x100 with infinite length would be an interesting size to build.
    You could actually print 'extrusion' or pipes to any length.
    Or possibly smaller. I guess it all depends on what i can find to use as the belt.
    An inside out sander belt would work well and you can just coat the smooth surface with some printer glue or kapton tape.
    You'd only need a really tiny hotbed as well.

    I mena I have no actual reason so to do - just strikes me as a fun project :-)

    And don't look at me as far as firmware goes - I still have no clue how to update the configuration file on the sapphire.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 10-07-2020 at 11:55 AM.

  9. #9
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    I am also gonna put an endoscope on the nozzle, another camera to stare at the print. rgb lighting, And I have a plan and already ordered parts to rework the frame so it takes an even smaller footprint than it does now while looking emptier or more open inside the cube and also to make the whole structure more rigid. It has already shipped and we should be days away from receiving it. You should definitely build you a coreXY in whatever size you are comfortable with. This is such a fun hobby and you have other printers to make parts with. PETG makes for a better functional part than PLA. And you know if you need it when you get there Spegelius and I will do our absolute best to help you get the firmware up and going and dialed in.

  10. #10
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    Well the TronXY might have to display the Creality logo. I know I want to swap the bed heater for a 500x500 mains powered silicone heater I will stick to the underside of the bed. This will get up to temp in 1 minute instead of 10. I have been looking for a better build surface because the Gecko Tek build surface isn't good for high temp printing. I found this and Oh Man. Glass is and will always be flat. It is textured and the carbon silicone glass has a max working temp of 400c. I really think my TronXY might display the Creality logo on the bed: https://usa.banggood.com/Creality-3D...r_warehouse=CN
    Last edited by AutoWiz; 10-07-2020 at 10:05 PM.

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