Printer noob - Can't print consistently on FFCX

[Geoff]

Not for the cost and machine complexity involved. It isn't worth $1000 bucks.

Someone said there is autoleveling for $40 bucks, I have yet to see a link to that piece of hardware. lol. Once you are leveled and have a solid build plate platform, the z-axis switch takes care of your build plate height in relation to the nozzle. This is set every time a print is started.

Then you are very inexperienced in simple electronics. It can be done for even less than $40, I was being safe at $40. What exactly do you think a Z probe is? LOL There are 8 ways to make one that I can think of using normal components lying around the house. An old VCR would pretty much give you all the components you need - but you knew that of course didnt you?

Stop being such a douchebag and jumping on everyones suggestions. I've been reading your posts and that's all you seem to do lately.

[palawanisland]

warning : Mcmaster-Carr does not entertain new customer.

[Roxy]

Then you are very inexperienced in simple electronics. It can be done for even less than $40, I was being safe at $40. What exactly do you think a Z probe is? LOL There are 8 ways to make one that I can think of using normal components lying around the house. An old VCR would pretty much give you all the components you need - but you knew that of course didnt you?

Stop being such a douchebag and jumping on everyones suggestions. I've been reading your posts and that's all you seem to do lately.

The actual post he used as an excuse to jump on me had a link for a servo (with shipping) that ended up selling for $1.79 on eBay. Also in that post was a link to the information about getting a cheap micro-switch on eBay for $1.00. I understand some people may want higher quality parts but I'm getting good results with those parts that can be had for under $3.00.

There is going to be a few more cents of plastic to make a Z-Probe Leg and maybe a few more cents for a nylon zip tie wrap to hold the Servo if you don't print up a nice mount for it. But this can clearly be done for under $5.00 without even trying hard.

So as it turns out....

I have yet to see a link to that piece of hardware. lol.

Is not true at all.

[jfkansas]

Point me to where all three leveling screws are adjusted automatically via a $1.79 part.

[Geoff]

Point me to where all three leveling screws are adjusted automatically via a $1.79 part.

I guess I'm more resourceful than I thought then...

Via 4 x $6.29 part, high torque metal geared servo, an ATtiny mega chip for $5 (provided you have a preexisting arduinio or similar to flash the tinyMega) some good eyesight, the IR sensors from a VCR and it's remote and a fine tip soldering iron.

OR even better - go and dumpster dive at a phone company and grab 4 spare handset lifters, each of which contain metal geared servos that have over 1kg of torque (as in real torque, not this BS hobby torque rating), more than is required for levelling screws.

OR if you have an extra $50, google for the guy that hacked a Gibson robot guitar and shows how to re-create the winding mechanism for your own auto tuning guitar - a mechanism that simultaneously and individually adjusts between 6 and 8 tuning knobs. We only need to worry about 4, and we are not tuning the thing, we are getting it level.

OR you could use an arduino and a laser pointer and a reflective reference and just use your fingers for less than $30.


I could go on... But these are 3D printers yeah, essentially you have a machine that can create the entire system housing for you, you are simply adding electronics and assembly. I am building my prusa on friday, I will add an auto level to it for as cheap as I possibly can. I will make it independant seeing the prusa doesn't have a raising Z level.

[Roxy]

Point me to where all three leveling screws are adjusted automatically via a $1.79 part.

Ah... Is it possible the leveling screws are not adjusted automatically when you do Auto Bed Leveling? Is it possible that software is working some magic?

"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which can not fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance-that principle is contempt prior to investigation."

--HERBERT SPENCER

[Geoff]

Ah... Is it possible the leveling screws are not adjusted automatically when you do Auto Bed Leveling? Is it possible that software is working some magic?

"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which can not fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance-that principle is contempt prior to investigation."

--HERBERT SPENCER

I have the calluses to prove you can level your bed effectively for 0$

[lucidpsykosis]

Download and print a Creator X Z-axis offset. Rest it on the the build platform support behind the build plate and you're good to go! Double check that the height of the Z-axis shim is the same as the thickness of the glass.

If you want to print with ultra-fine resolution (eg. 80 microns), a good recommendation is to level with a feeler gauge.

Peter

Thanks Peter I printed the offset, and it works great. Glass is working out soooo much better than the tape; I guess its just what happens when you're new at this and you make mistakes. Anywho, I got it where I can see how the filament is being laid out, and how to adjust for it, so that's a good thing. The best I've been able to print with a fair amount of decency is .1 mm...didn't know if I could push it more than that with this printer.

[Geoff]

Thanks Peter I printed the offset, and it works great. Glass is working out soooo much better than the tape; I guess its just what happens when you're new at this and you make mistakes. Anywho, I got it where I can see how the filament is being laid out, and how to adjust for it, so that's a good thing. The best I've been able to print with a fair amount of decency is .1 mm...didn't know if I could push it more than that with this printer.

It has alot to do with the filament you use as well, some filaments will not do 0.1 due to their tolerance. I have 3 rolls of Red ABS here, all different suppliers. One can print at 0.1mm no problems, the other two struggle, and prefer 0.2mm, it's very easy to see when you print. You can vary temperatures to make the adjustment but essentially there is only so much you can do before you are limited by the filaments capability.

[lucidpsykosis]

Had the same problem here, a file name error ..the file has to be .X3G not .S3G ("files of type" drop down menu, save as .X3G)
Also I find more prints "gronk" via the SD card (perhaps because I've extended it?) I always use the PC now.
While I'm here, I have to say Geoff offers really good help.
Having said that, my FFCx runs a bit differently, most of my ABS runs the best at 222C, the hotbed at 102C with Kapton, mostly without rafts.
If it doesn't stick, I use the ABS glue (with MEK).
Also, on the bed leveling, I level it hot (~110C) with a sheet of plain paper, it may take a few go-rounds to get it right, but to be honest, I haven't leveled it in weeks, and yes I run it almost every day @0.22 resolution.
I snap off the prints with a chunk of oak stick & rubber mallet after the bed has cooled to ~80C (sounds crude, but it works), tap it at the base.
Just make sure you preheat the bed to allow it to stabilize before running a print.
Pics of some older & newer prints..and FFCx front panel mods (front lighted switch, plastic front cover, SD card extension)
My 2 cents anyway.
Cheers!
TD
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LMAO "stool sample"...thats awesome. Thank you for the info, very much appreciated...and yes, if it weren't for a lot of Geoff's posts I would've been sending this thing back in the first week. Having said that, since then I've had a lot of good help from many people. Your prints are amazing, I hope I can get mine to look that smooth at some point. Since I got that roll of PET+, I haven't really gone back to trying ABS or PLA, maybe now that I'm better acquainted with my FFCx, I might give it a go. How did you do your power switch?