Printer noob - Can't print consistently on FFCX

[lucidpsykosis]

Lol, wow, thats almost impossible to do unless you bump the build plate and it lowers a little when you are leveling it. This throws off the z height because you end up raising the plate up too high to level it. Ditch the Krapton all together anyway, glass is the way to go. Get 2-3 3/16" glass borosilicate from Mcmaster-Carr. Really 2 is enough.

yeah after I did that I saw a post with someone mentioning that stuff. Then again, I might look at sending this FF back and getting that new Swedish one called ZYYX, but I can't find any reviews on it yet.

[Roxy]

This blows...I re-leveled the plate using a sheet of paper, only to tear the Kapton film when I started to print my next piece...FML. I'm thinking this printer idea was a bad one. I just wanted to make replacement / add on parts for my RC drones / cars, and anything else that seemed useful.

And that is why auto bed leveling is so nice. Maybe you should print up a Z-Probe to put on your extruder?

[jfkansas]

Auto leveling isn't needed at all. Too much involved in doing it right and would cost too much to make it worth it. Leveling and setting the gap isn't a big deal at all really.

[lucidpsykosis]

what does it mean when the front, back and sides feel right but the center is tight?

[lucidpsykosis]

And that is why auto bed leveling is so nice. Maybe you should print up a Z-Probe to put on your extruder?

How does one make that? I think I saw one on Thingiverse, but I don't know how to use it.

[Roxy]

How does one make that? I think I saw one on Thingiverse, but I don't know how to use it.

Basically, you change your Marlin firmware to have auto bed leveling turned on. The only other thing you do is get a cheap servo off of eBay to kick down a leg with the Z-Limit switch on it.

If you can run a Wade's extruder on your machine, check out: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...light=Wade%27s

You will see where the probe goes and how the servo mounts into the extruder.

You would just order a servo such as this to fit into the extruder and then print up the parts:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-x-SG90-...item4623c4e449

And if you run the Enhanced G29 Auto Bed Leveling command found here:

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ed-G29-command

You will get lots of help getting it going!

[jfkansas]

Basically, you change your Marlin firmware to have auto bed leveling turned on. The only other thing you do is get a cheap servo off of eBay to kick down a leg with the Z-Limit switch on it.

If you can run a Wade's extruder on your machine, check out: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...light=Wade%27s

You will see where the probe goes and how the servo mounts into the extruder.

You would just order a servo such as this to fit into the extruder and then print up the parts:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-x-SG90-...item4623c4e449

And if you run the Enhanced G29 Auto Bed Leveling command found here:

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ed-G29-command

You will get lots of help getting it going!

Bad idea even suggesting contraption like that to someone so new to printing 3d, and I doubt it would even fit the Flashforge let alone getting it to electronically function properly. Adding any extra weight to the print head is a very bad idea also. It just causes more wear and tear on the mechanisms and worse print quality even at lower speeds. The best thing you can do to a Flash Forge Dual head is remove the left side stepper and heater block and all the wiring especially if you don't plan on doing Dualstrusion.

Auto bed leveling would be very complicated to automate due to having to calculate 3 different heights on the build plate. Leveling and just setting z height are two entirely different scenarios.

[jfkansas]

what does it mean when the front, back and sides feel right but the center is tight?

That is normal, the print head sags very slightly in the middle. I usually level the bed perfectly with a postit note, then every so slighty tighten each thumbscrew just a tiny amount. Do all 3 the same. But it will print fine when the print head is a little closer to the build plate.

It helps if you decrease the weight of the print head by removing the unused stepper motor at least when not in use.

[Roxy]

Bad idea even suggesting contraption like that to someone so new to printing 3d, and I doubt it would even fit the Flashforge let alone getting it to electronically function properly. Adding any extra weight to the print head is a very bad idea also. It just causes more wear and tear on the mechanisms and worse print quality even at lower speeds. The best thing you can do to a Flash Forge Dual head is remove the left side stepper and heater block and all the wiring especially if you don't plan on doing Dualstrusion.

Auto bed leveling would be very complicated to automate due to having to calculate 3 different heights on the build plate. Leveling and just setting z height are two entirely different scenarios.

Mostly, that thread was given so he could see what was involved to get a suitable probe. The Wade's extruder I have is heavy. There is no doubt about that!

[Geoff]

Auto leveling isn't needed at all. Too much involved in doing it right and would cost too much to make it worth it. Leveling and setting the gap isn't a big deal at all really.

You can do autolevelling for under $40.

Really mate, you need to stop dissing peoples responses on here or automatically assuming them incorrect or telling someone else that it's not needed.

If you have a suggestion, give it - but don't keep jumping on suggestions people give, it's getting pretty apparent now.