Close



Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20
  1. #1

    ABS Prints Warping and Separating

    Good Day Everyone,

    Searches are providing several hits, so please excuse if this has been answered previously.

    As you'll see in the photos, the ABS material is shrinking rapidly. I'm aware that ABS needs
    more heat.

    Nozzle temp is 220 and Table temp is 100 degrees.
    30% fill
    All Standard Hardware
    ABS 1.75 mm, 1 k.g. spool

    What have you done to improve heating for ABS prints? I'm thinking to encase the entire
    unit inside of an aluminum box to trap the heat.

    abs2.jpgabs3.jpg

    If you can provide a link, or give tips I'd appreciate it!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Large flat things tend to warp. Things with sharp corners are worst.
    Enclosure is really required to get good results. Keep in mind your electronics that will be inside.
    I heat my enclosure to 50C, nozzle temp on my machine is 235C and bed temp is 110C. When I design a part I round the corners and add chamfers . Bed to nozzle starting distancec (Z offset) need to be correct and bed must be level .02mm off and cause issues. Adding a brim of 6 outlines spaced .02mm from the part can help to hold things down and still be removable. Not plug and play so unless you "NEED" the part to be ABS it may be better to experiment with PETG or just a more robust PLA.
    Hope that helps

  3. #3
    Thanks for the quick response.

    I'll try the new settings you suggest, but I'll definitely add an enclosure. I've seen many ABS
    printers that are built purposefully with glass doors, and encased metal side panels for this
    filament type.

    Unfortunately, I do need solution for direct sunlight applications and find that PLA melts/softens
    quite easily in hot environments.

    Quote Originally Posted by airscapes View Post
    Large flat things tend to warp. Things with sharp corners are worst.
    Enclosure is really required to get good results. Keep in mind your electronics that will be inside.
    I heat my enclosure to 50C, nozzle temp on my machine is 235C and bed temp is 110C. When I design a part I round the corners and add chamfers . Bed to nozzle starting distancec (Z offset) need to be correct and bed must be level .02mm off and cause issues. Adding a brim of 6 outlines spaced .02mm from the part can help to hold things down and still be removable. Not plug and play so unless you "NEED" the part to be ABS it may be better to experiment with PETG or just a more robust PLA.
    Hope that helps

  4. #4
    abs breaks down in UV, or so they say.. you should look at PETG for this part if it is only heat/sun that is driving no PLA. The part looks simple without a lot of small projections. PETG would be perfect, I use it for outside camera mounts. No enclosure, not warping but not a ridge as ABS but very durable bends a lot before it breaks.

  5. #5
    Awesome, I"ll order some immediately and give it a shot!
    Quote Originally Posted by airscapes View Post
    abs breaks down in UV, or so they say.. you should look at PETG for this part if it is only heat/sun that is driving no PLA. The part looks simple without a lot of small projections. PETG would be perfect, I use it for outside camera mounts. No enclosure, not warping but not a ridge as ABS but very durable bends a lot before it breaks.

  6. #6
    Staff Engineer Davo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    1,084
    Follow Davo On Twitter Add Davo on Facebook Add Davo on Google+ Add Davo on Shapeways Add Davo on Thingiverse
    Heat the enclosure to at least 50C, too.

  7. #7
    Thanks.

    The PETG spool arrived yesterday. Going to give it a try and then test the sample in direct sunlight.

  8. #8
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    8,818
    where do you live ?

    I've had pla parts outside - in direct sun - for over 6 years.
    The parts are good as new - the colour fades slightly, but the actual things stay as flexible and strong as when printed.
    That said I live in the uk, so we rarely get summer temps over 30c.

    Short of living in soimewhere like the sahara or death valley - not sure where you are going to hit ambient temps of over 60c

  9. #9
    I would love to trade you.. not sure the UK is in much better condition politically but the weather seems better.. this shows the temps (in F) for the month here in good old Philadelphia for this month.. looks a lot worse when the heat index is added, many days were in the 105+F range..
    https://www.accuweather.com/en/us/ph...0540?year=2020

    Got a coworker who is in Phoenix Arizona who baked cookies on the dashboard of his car parked in front of his house..

  10. #10
    Hey Guys,No luck with the PETG thus far.


    I'm using the exact same settings for the hardware, and file except temperature is 235 Nozzle, 80 on the bed.I'm noticing the PETG is not adhering to the bed surface [factory Ender bed substrate].


    I've tried a glass bed cover as well without luck.More issues is the printer is showing odd signs of operation. Sometimes the print will have sections that appear separated, or "balled up".


    Almost every other print requires me to remove the nylon tube from the print head and "un-stick" the filament so it will feed properly. Otherwise, the feeder cog wheel will just spin and spool stops rotating.


    All of this happened with ABS, but now it's more prominent. Probably not material related, but more the printer itself.



    I'll post this in trouble-shooting as well.
    Attached Images Attached Images

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •