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  1. #1

    Problems with wavy structure on flat surface.

    Ever since I swapped filament because I ran out of my Raise3d Premium PLA filament, I got hold of a Prima Creator PLA Pro filament.
    I can't get rid of this problem, and I don't know what's causing it, I've perfectly leveled my bed, prints pop off easily but they stick well during print.
    I've tested raising temperature of nozzle from 210 degrees up to 235 degrees.

    I've attached a picture of it.

    is the filament bad?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    forgot to mention, bed temperature is 60 degrees, it's a creality 3d glass bed with a chemical surface

  3. #3
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    hmm, odd, it's only in the one direction.
    have you tried either using a different slicer, or changing the infill direction settings ?

    Plus if it's a creality machine - which one ? Could be an x carriage issue if it's an ender (the one z axis motor means the gantry is never exactly level), or a bed issue if one of the others - those central rails with wheel supports do not run level.
    Or if just the one side of the machine, the friction between the bowden tube and the filament changes a lot - they're just an awful design.

    So with it being new filament, maybe friction on the tube.

    I mean with crelity machines you write all the design flaws on a sheet of paper and then throw darts at it to pick the problem :-)

  4. #4
    it's an ender 3 pro, with a microswiss direct drive extruder and all metal hot end.
    I have also installed motor dampers on X and Y axis stepper motors.

    I have ordered a new mainboard from bigtreetech, and a BLTouch sensor, hopefully that at least solves some of the issues I'm struggling with

  5. #5
    Student Grazuncle's Avatar
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    It is frustrating when this happens and as i have found out you can end up altering too many things at once and you don't always then know what is helping or hindering your efforts.

    have you printed something that you have done previously successfully with the old filament and again with the new one.. it may be difficult to know if this is a problem with a new design and or filament without recreating a previous success... Same setting of course.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Grazuncle View Post
    It is frustrating when this happens and as i have found out you can end up altering too many things at once and you don't always then know what is helping or hindering your efforts.

    have you printed something that you have done previously successfully with the old filament and again with the new one.. it may be difficult to know if this is a problem with a new design and or filament without recreating a previous success... Same setting of course.
    The most significant change I had to do was increase temperature, I printed at 210 degrees with the raise3d premium, with the primacreator pro when I printed at 210 degrees the extruder had problems pushing the filament through and a bunch of debree from the filament was created. it even started jamming mid print so I had to quit and restart. so I gradually increased to 235 degrees, now it prints normally, but large flat prints become ugly, small prints like mounts and chain links for the ender 3 cablechain become totallt fine, and they are even less brittle than with my old filament, I guess that part is totally dependent on temperature.

    sigh, I guess it's just a bunch of trial and error.
    could not get rid of the wavy ugliness, and yes, I even had that with the old filament

  7. #7
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    if you're printing pla at 235 - then you have a serious issue with the either the hotend or the temperature sensor.

    I can push pla through at 150mm's for a 0.4mm layer height at 210.

    For the speeds and layer heights an ender will do you should never really need anything more than 200 or 205 at the most.
    Your new hotend is not right.
    Something in your setup is lying to you.

    I'm guessing this is not a genuine micro swiss - but a cheapo chinese clone. Could be the heat cartridge is deliberately underpowered and they've done something to the thermo sensor to 'compensate'.

    This does sound a bit paranoid - but |I've seen a few videos about 'cloned' chinese computer components recently - and I don't see why the same approach wouldn't be used with 3d printer parts.

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