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  1. #1

    Squiggly/wavy printing help please

    I have recently started printings basic designs but unfortunately the models are suffering from squiggly lines in part which I am at a loss with. I have tried printing on best setting but it doesn't make any difference. I am printing on a flashforge Inventor 2 using flashprint. All help appreciated. Thank you.
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  2. #2
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    are you using supports ?

    Without them things like the ears - which are basically trying to print on thin air - won't work.
    Rest of the model looks fine.

    Use the 'advanced' settings in flashprint, that way you have a bunch of options for using supports etc.
    Pretty much NEVER use the bog standard settings for anything.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    are you using supports ?

    Without them things like the ears - which are basically trying to print on thin air - won't work.
    Rest of the model looks fine.

    Use the 'advanced' settings in flashprint, that way you have a bunch of options for using supports etc.
    Pretty much NEVER use the bog standard settings for anything.
    Thank you. I will try it again with supports and report back.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by loibert View Post
    Thank you. I will try it again with supports and report back.
    Much improved although there are still some squiggles. Is it worth adjusting any of the other settings i.e extruder temperature, etc.

    Thanks for your help. It's much appreciated.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    yep always worth tryung different speeds, layer size and temperatures.
    Pretty much every make of filament and every colour behaves a little differently.

    The additives used to create colour all change how the basic filament behaves.
    For example: yellow filament is both the hardest to make and the hardest to get clean prints from.
    Whereas white is usually the easiest. Red and black are close behind with black also being fairly easy to use.

    A fairly safe place to start with pla would be:
    50mm/s print speed
    200c print temp
    65c bed temp (depending on your print surface anything from 50-65 will give best results)
    0.2mm layer height

    retractions - I think the adventurer is a direct drive extruder, so start with: 1.8mm retraction distance, 60mms retraction speed and adjust both up or down depending on how much or little stringing you get.
    The goal is zero stringing :-)
    Stringing is caused by the head moving while the molten filamnent is still coming out of the nozzle. So the best way to get better prints is actually to nail the retraction settings for each filament.
    Once you have make SURE you save those settings as a seperate profile.
    Building up a profile library is MUCH easier than trying to remember a dozen or so settings for each filament :-)

    3d printing is as much an art as a science. And each machine will behave differently.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    yep always worth tryung different speeds, layer size and temperatures. Pretty much every make of filament and every colour behaves a little differently. The additives used to create colour all change how the basic filament behaves. For example: yellow filament is both the hardest to make and the hardest to get clean prints from. Whereas white is usually the easiest. Red and black are close behind with black also being fairly easy to use. A fairly safe place to start with pla would be: 50mm/s print speed200c print temp65c bed temp (depending on your print surface anything from 50-65 will give best results)0.2mm layer heightretractions - I think the adventurer is a direct drive extruder, so start with: 1.8mm retraction distance, 60mms retraction speed and adjust both up or down depending on how much or little stringing you get. The goal is zero stringing :-)Stringing is caused by the head moving while the molten filamnent is still coming out of the nozzle. So the best way to get better prints is actually to nail the retraction settings for each filament. Once you have make SURE you save those settings as a seperate profile. Building up a profile library is MUCH easier than trying to remember a dozen or so settings for each filament :-)3d printing is as much an art as a science. And each machine will behave differently.
    Thank you so much for your advice and tips. It is greatly appreciated. I will report back in due course to let you know how I get on.

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