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03-28-2020, 02:52 PM #1
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- Apr 2019
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Imprecision between layers - Anycubic i3 Mega
I'm fine-tuning an anycubic i3 mega that has had a lot of problems for a long time and I find that the precision between the layers poor. In slightly elongated and thin pieces it is seen a lot.
WhatsApp Image 2020-03-28 at 20.49.32.jpg
What could I do or what should I change to improve it?
Thank you and sorry for my english!
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03-28-2020, 03:26 PM #2
On my 3D Printer getting Z-Stripping which kind of looks like what I see on the image you posted.
To solve this problem I wrapped a single wrap of electricians tape on the lead-screw and press it into the coupler.
This keeps the Z-Wobble to a minimum on the lead-screw side of the couplers. I also had to align the Z-Axis so it did not bind for the whole Z travel.
Below is a sample of Z-Stripping
Model on left is with tape model on right is without tape.
2mm Layer Shifting.jpg
I tried to use these 3D Printed couplers that I 3D Printed and found the below Aluminum couplers were many times better.
Coupler.jpg
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03-29-2020, 08:29 AM #3
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- Apr 2019
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I apologize because I have not understood anything of what you have told me about the coupler and the wrap of electricians .
I have tightened the screws and the belts and the truth is that it is better, but it is still not enough.
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03-29-2020, 08:56 AM #4
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- May 2018
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Since you have provided no info on what material you are printing with or any of the basic setting info needed I will make a guess or two. These are small part, and you are only printing one at a time. Looks like they are over heated and printed too fast. When making changes to the slicer you change only 1 thing and then print. Change more than one and you will never get it right or understand what each thing does. First thing to do is slow down. I would probably print those things at 20mmS if they are as small as I think. If that does not help, next time I would set my extruder temp to the lowest number the manufacture suggest. The other thing I would do is print 2 at one this allows the layer to cool while the other model is being printed..
Good luck
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03-29-2020, 09:29 AM #5
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- Apr 2019
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Sorry for the lack of information.
I am using PLA, right now printing at 200º which is the temperature at which it is best for me to print it.
The speed is 50-60mm / s.
Now I'm going to try to print those small pieces at a slower speed and I will hang the photo again (regardless of the speed it will look better because of the improvements I have already made, that's for sure.
Regardless of this, the columns do have an evident excess of speed and temperature, but for the other two I have printed them with another printer with the same parameters and the result is very, very different.
EDIT:
There's no a lot of difference
[img=https://img.overpic.net/thumbs/m/7/v/xm7vscpsgle7jfymv6ms5_s.jpeg]Last edited by apares8; 03-29-2020 at 10:09 AM.
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03-29-2020, 11:24 AM #6
what slicer are you using ?
It's like you're over extruding - which is common with cura - download and try prusa slicer: https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/
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03-29-2020, 12:27 PM #7
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- Apr 2019
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03-29-2020, 03:41 PM #8
Below is a sample of Z-Stripping
Model on left is with tape model on right is without tape.
2mm Layer Shifting.jpg
Z-Stripping is caused when the Lead-screw warbles as it spins, causing the different layer extrusion to be offset from the previous layer.
You can test simply by raising and lowering the Z-Axis if you can see the lead-screw wobble this will cause Z-Stripping in above image.
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03-29-2020, 04:45 PM #9
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- Apr 2019
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I've seen this and the lead-screws seems okay.
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03-31-2020, 02:33 AM #10
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- Apr 2019
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How can I change the esteps for the motor of my extruder in the anycubic?. Maybe this could be the problem.
Please explain to me how to...
05-13-2024, 03:08 PM in 3D Printer Parts, Filament & Materials