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  1. #1

    Trying to print in Nylon for my company, help please

    Greetings everyone!

    I work for a bathtub company and we are trying to produce parts for our tubs that would be more cost efficient. The issue is that we were previously getting parts that were injection molded ( worked perfect ! ), but they were extremely pricey. After discussions, we moved to a 3D printing company that has been making our parts ( and not doing a great job at it ). The parts they produce usually take a while to get, and the quality is about 2/5 are junk that we have to pitch out.

    I own a 3D printer, a MonoPrice Maker Select v2, and have offered to lend it to my company for a short period and try and get up some prototypes of parts to see if we can print our own. Due to these parts being under a lot of pressure ( hard tightening via special rachet tools / heavy water weight ) my boss insists that we print with a Nylon filament.

    Now I have printed with PLA of course as it is probably one of the most common filaments to start printing with and use out of the box. This is however my first time using a Nylon filament. I have looked a lot online on how to use and get successful prints with Nylon.

    All my prints have been from 240-260 degrees, varying in print speeds as well as thickness layers from Cuda. We have the print STL files from the company that developed them, and I have been loading them and producing a successful GCODE from the files in specification to what Nylon works at.

    At first I was having issues getting the filament to stick to the heated bed, I raised the bed to 70 degrees and applied a light coating of Elmer's glue stick to the bed for the nylon to stick to. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

    On the prints that start to appear successful, I will allow them to continue to print in hopes that the prints will be fine, however after about 5 trial runs, every test has been a complete failure to even get 15 minutes into the print. I have noticed repeatedly the following issues: filament doesn't stick well enough to the bed and gets dragged around, the base layer will complete, however when building the scaffolding it wither warps and pops off and causes a huge mess, or it doesn't stick right and starts to turn black from melting on the extruder.

    I am using the Gizmo Dorks 1.75mm white nylon, I got it from Amazon and the pricing was extremely nice in the fact that most nylons are much more expensive. ( I think it was like 20 dollars when I purchased ).

    Anyhow, when I was printing small pieces for testing off of thingiverse, they didn't come out too bad, maybe some minor damage from the input amount of 10% for testing purposes, but not ideal. I have a bunch of images, the internet here at my workplace is pretty slow. It'll take me a bit to upload them, but any feedback is deeply appreciated.

  2. #2

  3. #3
    Staff Engineer Davo's Avatar
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    Nov 2013
    Atlanta, GA
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    You'll get better results if you use an Anycubic Ultrabase to print on (or print on fine grit sandpaper, grit up), and if you have a heated chamber.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Esun EPA is their version of nylon since the word is copy written.. Sounds like you are using some cheap stuff, upgrade to a better quality material . Nylon needs to be dried before each use. I use a food dehydrator on 165F for 9 hours before each print run. I print at 245 with a bed temp of 80 and no fan. I also close my enclosure.
    If I really want it to stick I use a plate covered with Polymide tape (kapton). If the starting height is correct and the bed level, the part will rip the tape off when you try and remove it. Glue stick on glass works for small part but they will warp off if larger. Speed needs to be slow.. with a .25 nozzle I print at about 10mmS .35 20-25 and with a .5 30mmS. I am using a MakerGear M2 so not the same printer or same product. Good luck
    Just looked at your pictures, looks very under extruded or the starting height is way to high. I have attached a picture of a small spool I printed yesterday using esun epa, .5mm nozzle, extrusion width .6 and a .35 layer height



  5. #5
    Nylon in water is a bad decision. Nylon is hygroscopic so it'll absorb the water in the bathtub really easily and can degrade over time. I'd recommend using PETG or ABS.

  6. #6
    Thanks for the information.

  7. #7
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    you need to use different nylon.
    As a rule nylon is total bastard to print with.
    But some are less of a bastard than others :-)

    The two best I've used are mymat nylon. From spain and expensive - but prints as easily as pla - no lies.
    The other that surprised me recently was Taulman Nylon 645. Stuck well and printed easily.
    The first tau;man filament I've ever had any success with. Pl;us doesn't need a heated print volume.

    With nylon filament you get what you pay for.

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