Nylon Filament

[curious aardvark]

I was throwing out the trash last night. And came across the frames the glass came in - hardboard backing, so basically a sort of wood.

Think I'll cut a piece to size and see what the nylon thinks and maybe the laywood as well.

Though, I think it'll have to be the weekend as I'm busy at work - you know, life really gets in the way of my 3dprinting !

[Roxy]

I am printing off my Prusa parts, so far so good and yeah after replacing a mainboard and drivers my flashforge is ready for one more haul to make its replacement
Attachment 2119

Shouldn't there be two nuts on each side of the bearing so you can lock them in place and they don't move?

[American 3D Printing]

maybe the laywood as well.

We have had success printing Laywoo-D3 directly onto the glass bed covered in PE tape on our TAZ. The bed stays at room ambient - no heat. One thing we did discover is that it prints at a fairly low temperature, like 155-175°C.

[Geoff]

Shouldn't there be two nuts on each side of the bearing so you can lock them in place and they don't move?

Nope, not on the prusa "instructions" I got lol....

I will have some spares, so when I start printing and see where it's falling over and probably add some. Im just glad i could get my FF working for one more round!

[Roxy]

Nope, not on the prusa "instructions" I got lol....

I will have some spares, so when I start printing and see where it's falling over and probably add some. Im just glad i could get my FF working for one more round!

Well... OK, but I can tell you I would put an extra nut on each side and lock both pairs down hard. I don't care if they don't like it! The whole purpose they are there is to make sure the bearing (which is also the pulley???) doesn't move. I'm going to spend the extra $.18 and lock the position down hard. (And I can still move it later if I decide to. ) {But I also know your printers are better than mine... So I won't lecture you!}

[Geoff]

Well... OK, but I can tell you I would put an extra nut on each side and lock both pairs down hard. I don't care if they don't like it! The whole purpose they are there is to make sure the bearing (which is also the pulley???) doesn't move. I'm going to spend the extra $.18 and lock the position down hard. (And I can still move it later if I decide to. ) {But I also know your printers are better than mine... So I won't lecture you!}

The 2 nuts are counter screwed, so they cancel each other out and have a spring washer inside, so they hold extremely tight and don't budge without some serious effort, but we'll see how it goes printing, so far so good no movement.
I ended up with a billion nuts and screws so can fix if need be, but have also seen better ones on thingiverse (printed Y idlers) and they look much better.

I think that's what I love about this design, sooo many printable parts, so many upgrades... I'm having a blast adding stuff to it now! My aluminum frame was done, but since I cheaped out and got it done at 4mm it flexes so getting a new one done at 6mm! solid! my brother in law has pneumonia too so no mig welding for a bit or cutting, so for now using the perspex clear frame that came with it (its one of those aurora z605 clones.. and not even that, a clone of a clone...)

It came with a Melzi mini reprap board, which is crap (doesn't support LCD ) but was good for a quick component test and make sure was all ok before I cleaned up the wiring, so now the ramps will replace it with the nice cheap and nasty sainsmart LCD controller I got.

I can't believe how cheap this stuff is now... you can get an entire ramps kit with LCD for under $100 now... and ive seen some that come with an MK2a hotbed or mk2b for about $120 all up..