Page 6 of 10 FirstFirst ... 45678 ... LastLast
Results 51 to 60 of 100
  1. #51
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    right. Well I've made both x & Y 80 steps, seems a little better.
    My trolley token-onna-stick are the right size.
    Did 6 in on go and they all look great and measure correctly.

    So here's a real test of retraction and bed levellness:
    28 Trolley Tokens-onna-stick in one go - gulp !

  2. #52
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Well she needs a name, after pulling this off last night:

    Not a blob, or sign of any threads or stringing anywhere.
    That's a level bed !
    size looks good - I'll try one this afternoon. If you hadn't already worked out they are for releasing trolleys without using a pound coin.
    Printed these at 100 - for selling custom ones to people I'll probably drop it to 75.
    They all released really easily too.

    So she needs a name and a nameplate. Hmmm, have to think about this :-)
    ctc 13 pro b - doesn't exactly trip off the tongue.

    The white filament I've been using is Y&S pla.
    See, they DID put a manufacturers sticker on the reel :-)

    I mean i have no idea where I gt it from, but at least i know what it is.

    Currently testing flexibles. Just printed at 40mm/s with ome flexible pla.
    Currently doing some flexismart black rubber at 30mm/s - I can just about use it on the delta at 10mm/s - so this is pretty good.

    I'm going to try filaflex next - had the roll for years, nothing has - so far - beenable to print with it. It's like wet spaghetti, the floppiest filament I've ever come across.


    One of the things I like about flexible filaments is that you don't need to heat the bed and you can run the first layer at 100%. Which, given how much slower the speed is than normal pla - makes up somewhat for the low print speed.

    Well hot diggity - this extruder eats fialflex like a hyena with a dead zebra :-)

    Just need to get my settings right and I reckon she'll print with anything !

    think I've finally got the settings for filaflex down.
    They say: 210-230c
    I say: 255 minimum :-)

    add in 120% extrusion and you can print it at 30mm/s
    Have to admit I am impressed with how a couple bits of ptfe tubing turn what is a really basic, no spring tension extruder into the best one in my workshop.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 05-20-2019 at 03:04 PM.

  3. #53
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    first decent filaflex print - ran it at 255 and 25mm/s.
    I'll probably drop that to 20 for subsequent prints.
    There are a few small areas where it hasn't melded ijnto a solid sheet of rubber, slowing it down slightly should fix that.

    What did surprise me is the lack of stringing.
    The final print is as clean as you'd expect from pla. Which does surprise me. Retraction is on 2.5mm and 40mm/s, and definitely seem to work as well as for stiffer filaments. That is surprising.
    The last part of this print is four cylinders with holes, at the corners of a rectangle. So I would have expected a fair bit of stringing between them as it moved from one to the other - and there is none.

    People buying these printers and then immediately changing the extruder - are really missing out.

  4. #54
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Just made a couple of articulated slugs from wood filament - The internal hinges were just as loose as all the pla ones. Wasn't really expecting that.
    We now have magnetic, climbing slugs - no fridge is safe !

    Not sure what a gang of slugs is called - I'm calling mine: A Horde Of Slugs !
    They are coming for YOU !
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 05-22-2019 at 11:00 AM.

  5. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    so that went fairly well.though for some weird reason s3d just kept moving the head to the same 3 spots. centre, middle left and back left. But then I spotted a fairly serious issue with the extruder setup. Between the extruder and the heating arrangement and the nozzle is an aluminium block. It's what you puch the bolts through to hold the mottor and extruder in place. Between the bottom of the extruder and the top of the metal block there is about a 5 mm gap. I guess whoever drilled the block drilled the extruder mounting holes in the wrong place. Not something you'd notice untill you load flexible filament and watch it come out sideways :-) So that need sorting today. Also need to start designing Bluestacks Kodi Lucky Patcher a top mounted filament holder.
    yes that's it myself I thought the same thingthe mistake is that the one who pierced the block drilled the extruder's mounting holes in the wrong place unfortunately
    Last edited by klimbo; 05-27-2019 at 03:36 AM.

  6. #56
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    An dthat's why you need to use some ptfe tubing to remove th gaps. Once you do that, it's a brilliant little extruder :-)

  7. #57
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    A couple of years ago at the tct show, innofill were giving away 300gm rolls of their abs fusion plus. I think dave and I got a couple each - I know it's abs, but it was FREE !
    So Ive got a few.

    Figured i'd give it a go.

    Says on the roll 240-260c and 110c bed.
    To start with new filament I always go straight down the middle for the first print - 250 in this case.
    Also given how good this bed surface currently is I also kept it at 65c.

    printed a couple of trolley keys at 75mm/s.

    Printed great. smell wasn't too bad, no obvious shrinkage that I could measure.
    But the layer adhesion was bloody awful.
    I know you should print abs slower than pla - but I'm relatively impatient where this kind of thing is concerned.

    So when i try it again I'll try 260c.
    Other than that they bent more easily and broke with less effort than a pla one would.
    So I'm still not an abs fan - but we can add another arrow to her quiver (still not thought of a name)

    One thing I have noticed, this extruder doesn't seem at all bothered by running fairly hot for long periods.
    Most budget printers don't recommend running above 240 at all, let alone for any considerable period of time.
    When i was mucking about with the filaflex I had it running at 255 for about 5 hours, with no issues.
    I also left it at temp between prints.
    Once the temps are set on this machine, they stay nailed.

    The x and y dimensions are still not exactly the same. But they're close enough for me not to worry about it.
    She very nerly pulled off a print in place iris box the other day as well.

    It's almost there - just a little too stiff to turn. But better than anything but the delta has so far managed.

  8. #58
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    right, decided to sort the steps and dimensionalty.

    Basically printed a bunch of 20x10x3 oblongs and reduced the steps by 0.5 until sizes were pretty much bang on.

    so I've ended up with: x=80.5, y=78.5

    I can't see any issues with the belts or bearing thingies. Not a clue why they aren't both the same.

    Just printed a 20x40x3 - all three are within a couple hundredths of a mm. That's pretty much as good as I reckon I'll get :-)
    weird - but accurate :-)


    Right now that's done. Curious to see just how fast I can print a 20x40x3 lump.
    gonna try 150mm/s first :-)
    Reckon the limit will be the extruder. Without spring loading, there has to be a limit to how fast it can push filament.

    Well the interesting thing is that simplify3d seems to max out at 200. no difference between 200 & 250.
    top surface of the cube was a bit rough at 150,
    Oh yeah printing at 0.3mm layers too :-)

    Yep, basically no matter what silly speed I put in - s3d obviously has some kind of built in limit.

    But hey, she'll print as fast as a mk3 prusa that costs 8x more :-)
    And the blocks printed at silly speed are the exact same size as the ones printed slower.

    All you need to do is slow it down for the solid top layers and you're laughing :-)
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 06-24-2019 at 04:54 PM.

  9. #59
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Okay, I still have one issue.
    vertical layer lines. They're pretty obvious and consistent.
    I'm guessing this is down to the z-steps/motor/screws not moving in completely consistent heights.
    Given that the final height of the object is about as accurate as you can get, and the x & y dimensions are now also accurate.
    Why am I getting these lines ? I'll pop pics up later.

    I believe my gantry is level. It doesn't make any noise other than motor whirring when I move it up and down. Which i believe it would if it weren't level.
    Also I can't see how that would make these lines anyway as they are consisten through the model, not just on one side or the other and the height is even and accurate on both sides.

    This is my first I3 - and it's not an issue I've seen on any of my other machines or can remember cropping up on the forum. So currently kind of stumped.
    Hopefully pictures will help someone go: 'Ah ha, I know what that is !'

  10. #60
    Engineer Roberts_Clif's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Washington State, USA
    Add Roberts_Clif on Thingiverse
    When I got lines like it was because of the lead-screw coupler.
    I order for this too be what is happening you would have to have a 1.25 - 2mm pitch lead-screw.

    Lead screws 3.jpg

    From left to right T8-8 4 start lead screw 8mm pitch turned one revolution.
    Center is a T8-2 single start lead screw 2mm pitch turned one revolution.
    Far Left is a standard 8mm all thread used as a start lead screw 1.25mm pitch turned one revolution.

    If you are using something like the two on the right then it could be that the lead-screw is not centered in the coupler.
    I have to do this with my couplers wrap a single layer of tape around the lead-screw the press it into the coupler.
    This allowed my lead-screw to turn truer, I also had a coupler that was sprung and wobbled this too required replacing with new coupler.

    Now my Z-striping no longer exists. Hope this information helps you.

Page 6 of 10 FirstFirst ... 45678 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts