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  1. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    well that worked - also matches up perfectly with one of the other halves. I have no clue how. But they line up both ways round and the ends are flush.


    I'm thinking the ghost of mc escher passed through my workshop a few days back.
    So what do you think fixed it? Sounds strange to me.

  2. #422
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    The weird thing is neither part looks straight, but they match perfectly - either way round.
    It is weird, but I can at least post them :-)

    But I've definitely got an issue. did some sheriff's badges last night (going to cowboy themed meal wednesday) and the big one definitely had some offset layers.
    Have to check the pulleys on the steppers. Can't think what else it could be.
    I'll lock the motors and see if any of the belts still move.

  3. #423
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    pulleys and belts absolutely fine.

    Just been watching it print s deputy badge and tthe bed is moving.
    It looks like the head is catching and moving it, but damned if I can see on what.

    The bolts and springs are almost at maximum extension, so probably make sense to screw them right down which should make it considerably more stable.

    At the moment there is almost no compression on the springs so the bed moves really easily. If I screw it right down, the springs will be a lot tighter and upward pressure should hold the bed a lot more stable.
    Might also make a spacer for the cable holder, that also might be pushing the bed.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 01-24-2018 at 10:00 AM.

  4. #424
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    I had bed movement when I assembled mine, and I tightened the screws anout half way. That did stop the movement.

  5. #425
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    got a free evening tonight, so will do it then.
    It's annoying as I've got it levelled with all three readings identical, lol

    I can take it right down, my workshops is fairly cold and there's plenty air flow over the board and steppers, so not concerend about frying anything.
    Might redesign the cable holder to make it more flexible as well.
    We'll see.

  6. #426
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    well that should have worked.
    Got an extra 5.8 mm and the bed is absolutely rock solid.
    Can't move it by hand with out proper serious effort and a hammer :-)
    see how she goes :-)

  7. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    well that should have worked.
    Got an extra 5.8 mm and the bed is absolutely rock solid.
    Can't move it by hand with out proper serious effort and a hammer :-)
    see how she goes :-)
    Doesn't that take the shock absorption out of the sprints? Is that a side purpose of the springs, or are they there just to level the bed?

    GOOD NEWS, Finally got my PrintBite today. Actually got 2 as Jason put an extra one in for my troubles. Cant wait to try them.

    I have been working with the tech at HE3D for my inverse fan issue. It seems to have them baffled. He was going to try a firmware 'fix' but I dont want that as it will limit the firmware I can use. ( I am thinking of Marlin as it can autolevel, but not decided. ) Now he wants detailed photos of the top and bottom side of the board in the fan connector area. Doing that tonight, then relevel the bed ( tight like you did) and install PrintBite.

    I have figured out how to correct the issue with our 42mm effector that I reported here http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...slicing-in-S3D . What I did was run the part thru Netfabb 2018 Premium trial ( 15 days left ) ( and I assume that the standard free netfabb 2018 would do it ) and somehow merged both parts into one, so the 'inner square' is now joined with the outer and all slicers (S3d, KISSlicer, Slic3r and Cura ) slice it correctly ( well at least without the box walls ). Do you want it to put in your package of Mods for thingiverse?

    Replaced my first nozzle yesterday. Was not printing good, I think the wood filament I used (Hatchback, about 2/3 spool ) helped ware it out. Put in a ss 0.4 and so far, I like it.

    Thats my updates for the last few weeks..............

  8. #428
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    try a 0.5mm, lets you print 0.4mm layers without hassle.

    With the printbite most things will need a heated bed. My standard is 50c for pla.
    But some will print on a cold bed.

    Flexibles don't need heated - but since I fettled the creator's extruder that's now my goto printer for flexibles, leaving alexa for all other single extrusions. I think I do use heated for colorfabbs wood filament (brilliant stuff) but pretty sure you could get away with printing it on a cold bed.
    It does stick like a limpet.

    And should you ever get any, under no circumstances attempt to prnt mymat nylon on printbite. Talk about a permament bond lol

  9. #429
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    I think I will invest in a couple SS nozzles, adding 0.5 into the mix. I do usually use 50*c for PLA. Thanks for the heads up for the nylon, but I do not see that material in my future.

  10. #430
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    well all I have to say is: AAAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHH !!! BASTARD !

    Still got weirdly slanted moulds if I do them in a pair.
    Cannot find anything mechanically wrong with her.
    Just printing out an ssd caddy - see how that turns out.

    The other odd thing is that the moulds still work. Slot into each other and slide - no problem.
    It's like one side has been shifted up slightly. But without any horizontal shift. First layer goes down clean, flat.
    So how can it make a slant on the vertical axis without one on the horizontal as well ?
    I have no idea, but it is.

    ****

    ssd bracket printed perfectly, as did the two tall test prints I did when this started: a cylinder and a rectangle. So it's not necessarily an issue with the printer.
    weird it is.
    Last edited by curious aardvark; 01-30-2018 at 01:55 PM.

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