Powerspec Ultra Stringing issue/Software advice

[curious aardvark]

With s3d I keep my multiplier at 1. I measure the extruded diameter of the filament and that's the number i use.
With the pla I usually use it does extrude at 0.4 So that's my defualt.

I don't have a dreamer. But settings for s3d seem pretty universal until people start buggering about with extrusion multipliers and extruded filament diameters. ;-)
The extruded filament diameter is actually one of the most important settings as the slicer uses that as a basis for just about everything else.
So you should really measure it each time you load new filament and use the actual diameter.

As far as pla goes, I've found that for stronger more durable pla, print at the highest temp you can. I'm sure half the problems people claim for pla is because they're printing it as cold as they can.
I usually run pla at 210. You get better layer bonding, no gaps and bugger all stringing. Take note though, I run the print area fan ALL the time. Not sure if the dreamer comes with one or not - if not, fit one. Best mod you can do.

I print most things at 65 mm/s My wooden creator doesn't really like anything faster. I coudl probably print a lgood bit quicker on the klic-n-print. But I use that almost exclusively for flexibles - so I've never done any max speed tests on it. It's heavy solidmetal chassis and very well engineered so could probably print at 80 mm/s. One of these days I might test it :-)

For fussy filaments I might go down to 50. For flexibles usually 20-30. For stupidly tiny things like the 6mm 8 toothed gears I made last year from petg - 10 mm/s
But that's probably unique.
The 3mm rubber tires were also printed at 10 mm/s
All 5 components fitted on the surface of a dime :-)

The best thing you can do to any 3d printer is fit a sheet of printbite: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ntbite-surface
Just take all the hassle out of printing.
I haven't used any glue, tape or needed a scraper for over a year. On an enclosed machine like yours I suspect it would be even better.
Rather than glue it to the bed I'b be inclined to fit it with clips. For some flexibles you're better off with pva. But for 99% of filaments printbite takes a lot of beating.


Retraction speed wise, it's recommended for stiff filaments to run it as fast as you can, think I'm currently set on 60 mm/s. I have no idea what happens if you run that too high :-)
I upped it from 40 to 60 to see if colorfabbs woodfill would reduce stringing at a higher speed. Nope.
But the strings just rub off, so not a big deal. Not sure why it keeps extruding when the motor stops. Probably something to do with the thermal expansion of wood.
Might try printing it a little cooler. Might not lol

It's good stuff, just don't expect tidy prints till you've had a quick go with a sanding block :-)