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  1. #271
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    Oh no. Help, I'm falling down the rabbit hole again. Mission Creep is getting Deep! So I now see TMC2226 stepper drivers and they are not specifically supported by Marlin 2.0.5.3 and so i look there and see that Marlin is up to 2.0.6.1 and so I have ordered a bunch of the 2226 drivers and the skr pro will go in with marlin 2.0.6.1. Oh and i made this very short video displaying just how rigid the Multi Widow really is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=448lbf6lmKE

  2. #272
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    Well I cheated. Instead of making a new mainboard tray to hold the SKR PRO I just made a small adapter to mount the external MOSFET I wanted to use for the new 50 watt heater on the Mosquito. I will still do all these things but I am really anxious to get to printing with that BMG-M and Mosquito. This printer is wild. And even with all this I have managed to keep my electrical tame. A task anyone can handle if they just put a little effort into trying..

  3. #273
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    Alright it is time to have some fun snd show off the hardware and it's capabilities. So first and foremost i just want everybody to see there is no layer or part cooling fan present at the time I printed this. I still have to design that part..

  4. #274
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    There was some layer shift on Y axis right near the top. This is with 2lbs of plastic on the print bed. I have 2 steppers driving Y with one TMC2226 driver and the forward current set as low as possible i think 1.2 or 1.3. I will turn it up a touch but otherwise I am happy with the quality of this print..


  5. #275
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    Well I have found a place and space to try those closed loop drivers. As I am printing a lot of big things with this machine I am noticing that after going up and then back down 300mm or so the side with all the wires has a bit more weight and sits a little lower than the other side. A very slight amount but enough that I am making a correction in between each print. And that is just an untenable situation for me. I need my printers to be stable. Also while I have not measured I am pretty sure those skipped steps on one side of Z are gonna be reflected in my print's dimensions. So while tonight I am seeing how much I can crank that forward current without getting the stepper motors hot I think this is a great place to try them closed loop drivers with the displays that mount to the back of the stepper motors. I ordered a pair of assembled closed loop drivers with stepper motors just to be lazy about it. I got the newer v2.0 ones here: BIGTREETECH S42B V2.0 Closed Loop Driver Control Board 42 Stepper Moto – Biqu Equipment .

    This should be a pretty quick upgrade except for running the wires from the motor to the driver. These closed loop drivers want 6 wires instead of 4. Also I got a smart filament sensor to work into the TronXY printer because I cant see how I am going to print anything 600mm tall with 1kg of filament.

  6. #276
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    While I wait for shipping on them closed loop drivers for Z I can keep myself busy with some needed maintenance on my one off printer. With my dual motors I intentionally did not design a tensioner. It takes more to set the belt to the right length but it is a more rigid setup. I might change that at some point but for now we just need to get down to that 9mm gates reinforced Y belt. First the bed comes off..



    And then the Tevo carriage for the heated bed comes up revealing the carriage I designed and printed to marry the 4 cars to the Tevo carriage..



    With the 16 m3 screws and my carriage removed we can see the 4 cars that this printer's 400x250 bed slides back and forth on. HIWIN logos laser etched everywhere. The only thing more beautiful than the logos on them cars and rails is the way they feel sliding back and forth. But dammit it hurt buying them..



    Alright so now with everything out of the way we can focus on the small changes I want to make. First off the piece the belt attaches to for the Y carriage is offset to one side. It can be installed either way but I feel it is installed backwards. It is currently setup so the belt is offset to the outside of the carriage..



    Here is a better picture. In my mind flipping this the other way will mean more belt coverage and less chances of the belt skipping on the driven gears. And because I have this thought I know it is wrong and must correct it. In reality I am sure the difference is so utterly insignificant. But I will get to tighten the belt while I am here and that definitely will help..


  7. #277
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    because I cant see how I am going to print anything 600mm tall with 1kg of filament.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2457148
    Printed as a single piece and hollow.
    My mate would buy one.
    3-400g should do it.

    Without cooling, the finger looks good :-)

    So how long did that take to print ?

    And i really really really REALLY want you to build a delta !

  8. #278
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    I really want to build a delta, too. A big one. The finger took 10-12 hours to print.

    I have fixed the belts by removing the tensioner springs I had on both. Now I just have a tight belt with no preload and I am happy. Aside from that I also have made a few careful tweaks to my cable chains in the name of longevity. As a part of the Multi Widow rework I made the chains run a tight arc for a clean as possible look. Here we can see the chain that runs across the back of the gantry for the extruder. I had this chain tucked in real close and tight with the frame..



    For this chain I have reversed a few links to force a more rounded arc that sees a much more gradual bend across a larger length of wire instead of forcing such a tight turn. In the below picture the extruder is homed to the max endstop for X and the chain still doesn't force a tight turn..



    The Y axis was a bit easier to correct. Here is the way I originally set it up with the smallest footprint I could get out of it..



    And here is my incredibly simple correction. But it opens the arc and makes for an easier time for the wires as the bed slides back and forth..



    And now that all that is out of the way and the printer is back together we are free to get started on mounting them closed loop drivers on top of them Z towers..


  9. #279
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    So I fixed my Z issue and without the closed loop steppers and drivers. On the SKR 1.4 and 1.4 Turbo there is dual Z support baked into the mainboard. This is 2 Z stepper connectors tied to one Z stepper socket. I unplugged one stepper from this and ran it to E1, set up dual Z in marlin and gave each Z motor it's own driver. Now when I go up 330mm and come back down 330mm I am still at the same Z height on both sides. The only downside is now all the stepper sockets are occupied but to be honest that would have been the way with the closed loop drivers. Here is the physical configuration on the SKR 1.4 Turbo mainboard..



    And the closed loop drivers might go on the TronXY for X and Y just because the displays would look cool where the X and Y motors are. I just have to find some real world comparisons between the noise levels and performance differences between these and the TMC 2226 drivers.

  10. #280
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    I remember when I used to print dozens of things with one spool of filament. In those days a failed print was nothing. Today every skipped step seems to cost me $20. Not much on its own but man is it adding up. These big prints are putting too much weight on the bed driving inertia to a higher place than what the pair of stepper motors can handle. So now I have to backtrack and add an extra stepper driver for Y so we can double the amount of forward current going to them stepper motors. This print made it to 2lbs, 100mm tall, and 12hrs out of 17 before it failed.



    I was watching the printer when it happened and I stopped it as soon as I regained control over my mouth and let my own heaters cool down a bit..



    I had these setup before so it will go in easy and fast and I will be reprinting this piece today. I need to print 4 of these as they are the new legs for the TronXY. 220mm lift instead of 100mm. The TronXY will never have this problem as the bed doesn't move about in a way that will combat an ever increasing inertia. The stepper driver expansion board I have will not accept 2209/2226 and I have to run a TMC2208 driver in it. All the rest of my drivers in this printer are tmc2226. I will first try to run it just this way and see what I get.


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